Greetings all. I hope those of you in the Southern US and Southern Europe are keeping cool. Here in Antwerp we are enjoying temps in the 20s (low 70s F). Not that I want to rub it in.
Getting back to the travel part of this blog…
In March of this year I did a whirlwind trip to see family in the US. The passing of an uncle in 2021 reminded me of the people I care about in the US (both blood and chosen family) and being overseas means I had to be purposeful about seeing them. It was such a wonderful trip! Exhausting, but really, really wonderful.
I arrived at SFO where I spent the night and then boarded another flight the next day to LAX. Yes, I know I should have flown into LAX to begin with, but I purchased the transatlantic part of the ticket months earlier before other plans had been finalized.
From LAX, I rented a car and drove to San Diego where I spent one night with my cousin Kevin and his wonderful wife Pat. I had such great time hanging out with them and getting to know their kids a bit better. After Kev’s house, I went to stay with my mother’s friend Susan and her husband Mike. Sue is like an aunt to me as she and my mom were as close as sisters.
Sue and Mike live in Coronado, a wonderful small island just off San Diego. We also went to their house in the Anza Borrego desert. This was such a treat. I have always loved the desert but this year, after all the rains in California, it was just incredible. The flowers created a carpet of color and, since the storms were still brewing, the skies added an additional layer of drama into the landscape and the photos. I also finally saw a roadrunner and made a new friend: Jack.
After San Diego and Anza Borrego I went back up to LA to visit with more family. I stayed with my Aunt Anne and her husband Steve. My cousin Gen also lives in LA and my cousin Lisa flew down from Washington State. We had one big family dinner to celebrate my uncle Kevin’s birthday. It was such an nice mini-reunion. I want to give a shout-out again to Auntie Anne for putting it all together. I hope we can do it again soon. I miss you guys!!!
Before leaving Southern California I went out to Joshua Tree National Park for a night. For European U2 fans, yes, there really are Joshua Trees and they look just like the ones on the album. Fun fact: Joshua Trees are not actually trees. They are succulents and part of the yucca family. The park was just as interesting and beautiful as I remembered and the snow capped mountains were like icing on a desert cake. It’s a lot more built up now but when I was going there in the 1990’s, it was just a mere “national monument.”
I finished up my trip to the USA with a too-short stay in Missouri with my friend Barb and a couple of days in SF before flying back to Belgium. It was great to see friends in SF, and the City by the Bay will always hold a special place in my heart.
TRIP TIPS
I did rent a car on this trip. If you have a foreign license, as I now do, SIXT rental car is probably your best bet. It was super easy and the car comes with the mandatory liability insurance all non-US drivers must purchase. They also have a lot of fun cars if you want something a bit more zippy than your standard sedan.
If you are flying in to SFO or leaving super early, the Grand Hyatt at the airport is a great option. Yes, they are more expensive than the ones off terminal, but here you are but a few air-train stops from your airline departure counter. If you want a hotel that’s a bit more economical, there are myriad choices within a few miles and most have free shuttles.
If you don’t have Global Entry yet, it is well worth the money and is open to some non-citizens/permanent residents as well as all US citizens. Depending on your credit card, the fee may actually be covered. Global Entry includes TSA Precheck (not vice-versa) and will have you through passport control in mere minutes. Once you are approved and your photo has been registered, facial recognition technology scans you and nobody even asks to see your passport. And before any of you conspiracy theorists say something about the facial recognition being an invasion of your privacy, do you really think they aren’t already photographing everyone that comes in through passport control? For more information and to check eligibility, click here. One note, while filling out your application, have your old passports for reference. I think I had to list EVERY country I have been to.
Does Dolce Vida work for all of Italy or just one part? Have to admit, I do not know the answer to that.
Anyway, last month Penguin and I took a two and a half week rail trip through north-central Italy. We started in Lake Como and finished up in Assisi. It was a great time with some spectacular scenery.
The first stop was in Lake Como, noted for being the favorite holiday spot of the glitterati. It is so much more than a playground for the rich. The main city, Como, is lovely with some nice cafes and a stunning cathedral. This is where you will probably want to be based as it offers the best connections and services. It is worth spending a half a day.
There are myriad small towns around the lake, each with it’s own character. An excellent, albeit slow, ferry system connects the towns as does a decent bus system. I visited Bellagio, Varenna and Nesso. I stopped at a couple of others, but not for much longer than a ferry change. Bellagio is the most famous of the lake towns and was my least favorite. It is really a tourist trap and very crowded. It reminded me of those towns on an Alaskan Cruise where crappy shops hit you in the face as soon as you disembark. I would suggest skipping Bellagio. The nearby town of Menagio, just across the water, is rumored to be better, although ferry times didn’t allow me to visit.
The ferry ride itself is wonderful and scenic. The lake reminds you of fjords and the views of all the different towns never cease to impress. The towns Varenna and Nesso are both wonderful. Varenna has an amazing old villa (Villa Monastero) with beautiful gardens and stunning views of the lake. There are also old villas around town you can visit and the town waterfront is a great place to enjoy lunch and the views. Varenna easily warrants a full day. It is also one of the few towns where walking around is a relatively flat endeavor.
Nesso is a bit of a different experience. It is VERTICAL. You arrive lakeside where you can see a lovely bridge and a pretty little waterfall. If you want to see the town, you must climb. So, I climbed. At the top, you are rewarded with a lovely cafe and a stunning view. Up top, I walked along the road to see more of the area and then hopped a bus back to Como. Walking back DOWN the thing I had climbed up was not something my knees were up for.
Slide show. Please use arrows to navigate.
After getting back into town, I walked along the lake back to my hotel. There was speedboat race going on and this funny duck that kept trying to scratch himself. It occurs to me now that he may not have been well. I do hope he is, and that he finally got that itch.
Lake Como and her lovely towns warrant so much more than a few days. I would love to spend more time exploring farther up the lake. Another place to add to the list of return destinations. That list may be getting longer than the original bucket list.
After Como, I headed to Verona. I chose this town not because I had an overwhelming desire to see Verona but because it was conveniently located as a place to break up a train journey between Como and Cinque Terra.
Despite not being high on anyone’s list, Verona is lovely and I would recommend a visit. The city feels like a smaller version of Florence and Venice combined, and clearly has influences from both. There are several amazing churches to visit and the walk around town is nice. It also lacks the throngs of tourists that make so many other Italian locations unpleasant these days. I did NOT visit Juliet’s house as this is something just constructed for tourists.
Cinque Terra was the next stop and I have to tell you, I was underwhelmed. The towns are lovely, but there are SO MANY PEOPLE, and this was in October. I cannot even imagine what it must be like in high season. Also, the towns really all blend together. I was there for 4 days and it was a bit too much. I was able to visit Portofino as well, so that was a plus. I would say you could see absolutely EVERYTHING here in 3 days, including Portofino. You really don’t need that much time in each town.
Cinque Terra is actually a national park, although many people live and work there. It is famous for the beauty of the five towns (Cinque meaning five) and steepness of the hills on which the people have farmed for generations. Today, most of the commercial agriculture is viticulture and the local wines are lovely. The fourth picture in the slideshow below shows a vineyard on the impossibly steep hill. It might be worth it to return one day just to watch the harvest!!!
I stayed in La Spezia on the southern end of “the park” thinking it would make it easier to get around and offer better services than the smaller towns. I was right. I would recommend staying either in La Spezia in the south or Levanto in the north and then take the train and/or ferry to the different towns. If you only have one day, take the ferry . You will get much better views from the water. The train runs very frequently and it is very easy to get on and off. Get your tickets at any station. You can buy a day pass. The ferry sells single ticket or hop-on/off tickets. They are sold at the dock in each town. If you want to do the hike from between the towns (route closed due to a landslide at time of writing) you will need a permit which is available at any tourist office in any of the towns.
As I said, the views of the towns are best from the water and they ARE stunning. I can’t decide which one was my favorite. On my first day I got to Monterosso al Mare before sunrise which was wonderful. I really liked Riomaggiore.
Slide show. Please use arrows to navigate.
Since I had time, I also visited Portofino and I think I liked it better than any of the Cinque Terra towns. It is definitely a place geared for the wealthy, but in mid-October on an overcast day, it was lovely and calm. I enjoyed the walk through town and up to the church on the top of the hill. Penguin enjoyed seeing all the boats and being close to water.
Slide show. Please use arrows to navigate.
After the coast, I headed to what was my favorite stop on this trip: ASSISI (as in St Francis of…). It is twinned with my hometown of San Francisco and is even more of a challenge to walk up and down. Assisi is best known as a pilgrimage destination and definitely has a spiritual character. However, even non-religious and/or non-Catholics will appreciate the beauty of this old town on a hill. And, if the spirit moves you, there are plenty of places for quiet reflection and to ponder what St Francis means in 21st century life.
One of my best ideas on this stop was to get up before sunrise and enjoy the little city as it started to wake up. It also made for some of the best pictures. I love to walk around cities before dawn. It is gives you a different experience and you have the place almost to yourself!
The basilica itself is truly amazing, one of the most incredible churches I have EVER seen (and I have seen a LOT). Photos of the inside are not permitted, but I did manage to sneak a couple from the doorways. I understand why they are not permitted. During the pilgrimage period, with all the crowds, it would be a selfie stick nightmare. I am so happy I got to be there in the off season.
This slideshow is the longest of this post. Please use the arrows to navigate so you don’t miss any of them.
The last stop in Italy was just a stopover: the mountain town of Domodossola. The town itself is nothing to get excited about. However, not far away is something worth seeing if you are in the area. In the town of Re there is an enormous church called the Sanctuary of Our Lady of Blood. (If you follow me on Instagram, you will remember I posted a picture of this church and said to check the blog for the story.) This is an enourmous structure in a very small town and there seems to be no reason why the church should be there. Well, it exists because of a miracle. In 1494 some boys throwing rocks at the local church when one hit a fresco of the Virgin Mary, called Nursing Madonna. The following morning, the Madonna in the fresco started to bleed and continued bleeding for 20 days. The church became a pilgrimage sight and was expanded and rebuilt several times. The church one sees today was completed in the mid 20th century. Local signage at the Sanctuary says the bleeding fresco is removed from the altar of the church every year on the anniversary of the miracle, so the faithful can experience it.
TRIP TIPS
1. In Como, try to arrive at the Como Lago train station and NOT the bigger San Giovani Station. Como Lago station is right in the center of where you want to be vs San Giovani, which is at the top of a steep hill accessible by stairs only (or car from the other side). See below map with arrow. There are direct trains to/from Como Lago and Milan.
2. The ferry company for Lake Como is the Navigazione Laghi. It operates year-round, but times differ by season. You will want to check the schedule in advance. You can find the information here: https://www.navigazionelaghi.it/risultati?lake=Como . However, times can change without notice, so only use the information as a guide. I do not recommend purchasing tickets in advance as the website is not very user friendly and information not very current. Just go REALLY EARLY (like 07:30) on the day you want to travel.
Review the map online of the route and plan where you want to go in advance. Have a backup in mind when you go to the ticket office. Your first ferry choice may be full.
As mentioned above, the ferries are SLOW. There is a fast boat which costs more. If you want to spend more time exploring the towns, the fast boat is your best option. When I visited October, 2022, you could ONLY purchase tickets on the fast boat the day-of and in person.
The buses run longer hours than the ferry. A good option is to take the ferry to the town you want to explore and then take the bus back. Bus stops are clearly marked in towns. Ask a local for help. Everyone here is very friendly and most speak at least a bit of English.
3. In Cinque Terra, you can travel by train or ferry. The train is the fastest and better for getting on and off to explore the towns. The ferry gives you the best views. If you only have one day (and you are staying in La Spezia), take the ferry and get off at one of the towns for lunch, explore a bit, and then return on by ferry. If you have two days, do both.
If you are arriving in La Spezia on a cruise, book the earliest ferry (+/- 9am) in advance if possible. The cruise terminal is about 1/2 mile from the ferry stop over very easy FLAT pavement. This could save you some euro vs booking an excursion from the cruise line.
If you want to hike between the towns, check first if they are open by going to: https://www.cinqueterre.eu.com/en/footpaths-cinqueterre . This site also has information about train and hiking fees, so it is probably a good source of information for planning. At time of writing, the cost for hiking was 7.50 euro/day, but only one path was open.
4. In Assisi, try to stay in the actual old town up on the hill. There is a good bus from the train station which runs every 30 minutes. Buy your ticket from tabak shop inside the station. The town with the train station is not very interesting and is a bit far from the sights. If you have a car, you can stay in the valley between the new city and the old, but I would not recommend it without a car. There are no amenities there so getting food or morning coffee.
The below map shows the bus route from the train station up to the hill and old city. Look for hotels near where the red stars are. The star on the left is the first stop just outside the city walls. There are a couple of hotels close to this stop but EVERYTHING from there is uphill. The star in the middle/top is the very last stop and is at the top of the hill. Everything from there is downhill. Keep in mind that all the streets are cobblestone. Only local cars are permitted inside the city walls. No rental cars. Also, it is unclear if taxis are allowed. I got mixed answers. The other stops along the blue line are just along the city wall and not ideal locations for a hotel.
The title of this post became our mantra every time we were cold or were fighting with the sleeping area in the camper van. I went with my friend Deirdre (from Ireland) and we really did have a great time. A camper van is the best way to do Iceland if you want to see a lot and don’t want to spend a ton of Krona.
We started off in Akureyri, in the north of Iceland. Deirdre met me there when I got off the ship from Greenland. We walked around Akureyri for a bit and then headed out for a nine-night road trip along the East Coast of Iceland.
I am not going to write about the trip chronologically. That would be tedious and frankly almost impossible since most of the place names are (for us) unpronounceable and, when written, look like a bad Scrabble hand.
As I said, this was a road trip. The roads were generally good, but I didn’t do the driving. Every time we turned a bend, we were treated to scenery that was even more spectacular than before. The roads themselves seem to want to show you the beauty of this country.
Click on arrows to view slideshow.
Iceland is the land of Fire & Ice. We didn’t get to the active volcanoes, but we did experience the effects of the “fire” in the thermal areas. Hot steam escapes from the earth creating an other-worldly landscape. This geothermal activity also gives Iceland about 99% of the energy it needs.
And in the south of the country, the energy escapes as water in the famed Geysir.
When researching this trip, there was one place I knew I wanted to go: Studlagil Canyon. It is a shallow canyon, but the basalt columns make it different from any other canyon you have ever seen. The river that runs through it is blue in the Spring, but we had to settle for the murky brown of Autumn. It was still incredible. Getting there is an all day detour from the coast road and requires a good walk from the parking area, but is definitely worth it. It’s location away from the main road and only being accessible by foot means no big tour buses. It does not, however, mean you will have the place all to yourself. The secret of this once hidden gem is out.
We happened upon another canyon during our drives. I don’t remember the name of it, but it was still impressive. Maybe Dierdre, when reading this post, will comment with the name. She took notes.
We got lucky to be there when the light was just about perfect.
Fjords aren’t something people always talk about when they sing Iceland’s praises. But they are there and they are stunning. Different than in Norway or New Zealand, but still stunning. The drive down to them was a bit harrowing and is not something Deirdre would like to repeat. We survived and were treated to magnificence.
Click on arrows to view slideshow.
Waterfalls are what people talk about. There are a LOT of them; as many as 10,000 by some estimates. We certainly didn’t see even close to that many and I have not even included all the ones we did see. We did love them all, even the small ones.
Click on arrows to view slideshow.
Godfoss
Skagafoss
Detifoss
Now, waterfalls are generally part of rivers. Rivers generally lead to the sea. In the Land of Fire & Ice, there is a glacier that calves in to a river which then carries large pieces of ice to the sea. Where this happens is called the Ice Lagoon. Even after seeing all the ice in Greenland, it was pretty cool!
The glacier that contributes all of this ice is enormous. In the picture below, look for the black dot just off the center, to the right of the floating blue ice. That is a zodiac boat. In case you are unfamiliar with zodiac boats, they are about 12 -15 feet (3.5 to 4.5 m) and about 7 feet (2.1 m) wide. Now, think about all that ice melting.
Believe it or not, there is more to Iceland then scenic splendor. The island’s most famous and loved inhabitants are the horses. They are small, sturdy and super friendly. In Iceland, they are long lived and relatively disease free. They have never had any predators, so they don’t spook easily. They enjoy protected status and no foreign horses are permitted in Iceland to maintain the purity of the line. Also, if an Icelandic horse every leaves Iceland it may not return. Pity the poor horse that wanted to explore and was never able to go home.. (Lisa M, I tried to bring one for you but it wouldn’t have been happy in my apartment until March)
On our final night camping, the island seemed to bid us farewell by treating us to an amazing moon. I can only describe it as a half-harvest moon. I had to scramble to get the gear set up to get the shot, but a couple came out. So with these snaps, I shall bid you a good night (or morning).
TRIP TIPS
It will take you longer than you think to drive between places. Distances look close but the speed limit is low (80kmh/48mph MAX). The roads, while good, are small, country, two lane roads with lots and lots of bends. You will also be stopping a lot to enjoy the views and take pictures. Budget your time accordingly. We did nine days and 1/2 the coastal parts of the country.
Do not EVEN THINK about going into the interior of the country without 4WD and the appropriate tires. There are signs telling you what types of vehicles are permitted on what roads. They are there for your safety.
There are many campervan rental outfits in Iceland. We chose CampEasy, since they were the most affordable. I am glad we did not go for the smallest option as this one was was a tight fit. It was fine for two people, although they advertise it as sleeping 4 (no idea how that would work). Look carefully at the pictures of the van you are considering and think about how you will all fit for sleeping and/or dining in bad weather. Get the largest one your budget can handle.
Google Maps works well in Iceland. There is no need to rent a GPS. Do download the map of Iceland to your phone for the few places there is no signal. You will get a good 4G signal in most parts of the main road.
Possibly the best sandwich to be had in Iceland is available from the langoustine truck in the parking lot of the Ice Lagoon. They do a gluten free version as well by putting all the good stuff in a bowl. Who needs bread when you have a bowl full of langoustine. Here is their website: https://heimahumar-local-langoustine-iceland.food96.com/
Watch your speed in all areas. There are speed cameras everywhere. It’s how they pay for the good roads. You don’t want to get a fine on your credit card after you get home.
There are two large grocery chains: Netto & Bonus. Netto is the better stocked chain with global brands. Bonus is cheaper but I didn’t see much in the way of fresh produce. There is a Netto in almost every town. Gluten Free options are easily found in Netto.
Wine, beer and spirits are ONLY available at the government run Vinbudin. Opening hours vary by town but rarely include weekends and almost always end by 5 or 6 pm. Plan ahead.
Campsites range in quality from horrific to quite nice. Google lists them with a little “tent” icon on the map. Look at the star rating and read the reviews. Almost all have kitchen facilities which are much better than cooking on the little burner thing that comes with your van. Campsites can also fill up, especially in summer. Try to pull in early, between 5 & 6pm, and get your spot in the kitchen.
If you have all the time in the world and want to bring your own car or camper, there IS a way to do it. There is a ferry from Denmark that stops first in the Faroe Islands and then continues to Iceland. It’s not cheap, but it is doable. I am thinking about the Faroe Islands in the future. Here’s the link to the ferry company: https://en.smyrilline.fo/
My final rail adventure of the Spring/Summer was to the Czech Republic and Dresden, Germany. When I first started planning the rail journey for June, Poland was on the itinerary. After what happened in in neighboring Ukraine, I figured the Polish people have more important things to deal with than tourists. I also didn’t want to take a bed that might be better used for someone fleeing violence. I’ve waited years to see Poland and I look forward to visiting in the near future.
After years of wanting to see Prague, I admit I was a bit disappointed. Don’t get me wrong. The city ISstunningly beautiful. However, like so many places, it has suffered from its own fame and over tourism. Every street is packed with tourists, many of them stumbling and yelling after too many cheap beers in the city’s myriad bars. Every other shop is selling the exact same crappy tourist schlock that was made in China. Nothing felt Czech and I often felt like I was at a frat party at Epcot.
Even with the crowds and rowdy tourists, there are some great parts of the city. The architecture is stunning. Prague survived WWII with little bombing (Allies did mistake Prague for Dresden a couple of times) so almost every building warrants a gaze and possibly a photograph.
Slide Show (Click on arrows)
The Charles Street Bridge is the famous one you see all the pictures of. The bridge is lined with incredible statues, mostly religious, and affords wonderful views of the city. There are always people there, but luckily it wasn’t jammed the day I went. This is one of the places where it would have been great to take a tour. Learning more about these statues would have been great. Can anyone tell me what the lettering on the Christ statue says? I can’t tell if it is Hebrew or Aramaic and yes, the latter would make more sense.
The Prague Castle is the crown jewel of the city and is said to be the largest castle compound in Europe. Within the compound walls there are streets, chapels, palaces of the nobility and a very impressive cathedral. The palace you can visit (separate entry ticket from the castle) is the Lobkowicz palace ( https://www.lobkowicz.cz/en/lobkowicz-palace ), which has an amazing history: twice confiscated by governments (first the Nazi’s then the Communists) and now back in the hands of the American descendants. The entire castle compound has been restored and takes an entire day to really see. You can buy your ticket online or at the ticket office on site. See trip tips, below.
Slide Show (Click on arrows)
One of my favorite things in Prague was the walk DOWN the hill from the castle. More churches and more amazing views and architecture.
After four days in Prague, I hopped a sloooow train to Cesky Krumlov, one of the prettiest cities in the Czech Republic. And, keeping in Czech form, it has a great Castle.
Slide Show (Click on arrows)
The history of the town is fairly calm, by European standards. Today, it has protected status and is truly a delightful city to walk around. Definitely spend time walking around the inside of the castle and the walled paths. If you are short on time, you can bypass the gardens. They have not gotten the same attention as the grounds. Also, close your eyes when walking past the bears. It might spoil your day.
My last stop in the Czech Republic was Karlovy Vary. I have no pictures as there really wasn’t much to photograph. I was told it was a favorite destination of Russian tourists and it has clearly suffered a lot over the past few years. A lot of it reminded me of the downtown’s of cities in the US south in the 80’s; before urban renewal. You can tell it was once a nice place to go but now it’s run down and a bit creepy.
If you are wondering about Penguin. He is fine. He was on the trip but the heat was too much for him. He hung out in the hotel and enjoyed hearing about each day from the comfort of air conditioning. He had a great time in Dresden at the Saxon Switzerland Park, our next stop.
TRIP TIPS
Buy your tickets for the Prague castle online and in advance. Click here for Castle Ticket info. The tickets are good for two days so you can take your time.
Do not use trains to get around the Czech Republic. They are infrequent and PAINFULLY slow. Connections in/out of Prague are fine but outside of that, you could ride a bike faster. I was traveling on a Rail Pass, which I now know is NOT a good plan. Take the bus. FlixBus ( click here )is Europe Wide and I have heard good things about it. My friend Cathy just took it and had good things to say about it. As on the train, keep an eye on your belongings.
In Prague, I stayed in a great Aparthotel called Orea Place Seno. Super nice staff and lovely studio apartments. The AC worked well, too. I would definitely recommend it.
The Hop-on/Hop-off bus is not worth it here. The trams are easy, efficient and cheap. You can take a trap UP to the castle and then walk down.
This may be my new favorite city in Europe. It’s compact for easy navigation, has a wonderful medieval center which has been lovingly maintained, boasts stunning scenery and has a nice easy going vibe. I spent 3 days here and look forward to going back soon.
Lucerne is on a lake of the same name straddles the Reuss river. The water in the lake is crystal clear and with the surrounding mountains, it reminded me of Lake Tahoe. There wasn’t much snow left on the nearer mountains when I was there, but the place is still strikingly beautiful. I took a boat trip around the lake which was wonderful and Penguin really had a great time. Summer hadn’t fully kicked in yet so the choices were limited. I hope that as tourism rebounds things will be back to full operation.
As you can see, the dramatic weather really made for some cool pictures.
There is also wonderful walking path around the lake which is a great way to spend a morning. The views are stunning and it is great to see locals taking advantage of their wonderful resource. I even saw several people swimming so I am guessing the water isn’t as cold as Lake Tahoe. I got very lucky with this shot on one of my walks along the lake.
Near Lucerne is a mountain area called Jungfrau; nicknamed the Top of Europe. The nickname is a bit misleading as the highest mountain in Europe is actually Mont Blanc, in France. Like the Matterhorn, reaching the top requires the purchase of a pricey ticket and several gondolas or trains. I enjoyed the excursion but it really wasn’t that different from the other mountain tops. The weather was a bit cloudier, so the photos are different. Also, Penguin had a blast inside the glacier. When he saw his cousins, he couldn’t contain his excitement!
As I said, the weather wasn’t that great the days I was there and there were some pretty heavy downpours which isn’t great for pictures. My trusty Dutch rain poncho (https://rainkiss.com/) kept me dry while walking around the town and along the old wall. The views from the wall are wonderful and I am sure really spectacular when it isn’t dumping rain.
I also enjoyed some indoor time at two of Lucerne’s very good museums: The Rosengart Collection and the Kunstmuseum. The Rosengart Collection is really wonderful if you like early 20th century modern art. They have a very good collection of Klee (of course) and a lot of Picasso. They also have a few Kandinskys, Miro’s and Chagalls. If you are in Lucerne, don’t miss the Rosengart Collection.
I really hope to spend more time in Lucerne in the future. I am sure it would be wonderful in Winter. My next stop on this trip was the Czech Republic. I hope to get that post done in the next week or so.
TRIP TIPS
Lucerne is compact and getting around on foot is easy. That said, unless you have a car, try to book a place close to the train station. Walking around with luggage is not fun, especially on cobblestones.
There is a good COOP grocery about three blocks from the train station as well as a COOP Express inside the station. It is very easy to buy items to eat at the stores to avoid spending a fortune at restaurants.
Locals warned me against visiting in November. They say it’s grey and rainy the whole month. Don’t know if that is true, but I thought I would warn you just in case.
The Bernina Express train near Alp Grum in the Swiss Alps
I‘m on the top of the wor-ld, lookin’ down on creation…..That song went through my head a lot while I was in Switzerland.
After our time in Alsace (FR), we headed for Switzerland. Fresh air, Mountain views…Ahhh. We took the Bernina Expess and the Glacier Express. These two train rides are considered among the most scenic in the world and are part of a network of scenic trains. On my next visit, which will be during winter months, I can connect all the scenic trains and see all the mountains. Can’t wait!
The Bernina Express connects the towns of CHUR and TIRANO (in Italy). I got off the train in Poschiavo, still in Switzerland.
Chur itself doesn’t have much that is terribly interesting, but it is a big enough town that you can get in and out on regular trains to see the surrounding areas. One of things that is close by and fabulous is the Rhine Gorge. It is called the “Grand Canyon of Switzerland” which I think is a bit inaccurate. This gorge IS amazing, but it is alpine and the Grand Canyon is desert. Anyway, It still loved it and loved the hike around it.
Slideshow
After Chur I took the train to Poschiavo. This is a great little town. It’s in Switzerland, but the language and culture are all Italian. It is situated on a beautiful lake which made for nice walks. I loved everything about this little town and hope to visit again some day (again, when there is snow). From Poschiavo you can go back up in to the mountains to see the view you rode past on the way down. If you ever take the Bernina express, make mental notes of the towns that looked nice then go back on the local train.
Slideshow
Close to Poschiavo is the wonderful Glacier Garden at Cavaglia. The local canton (Swiss for county) have spent a fortune making this place accessible and easy to visit. It’s only open in the summer months and as you walk around you understand why. It would be TREACHEROUS in ice.
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The mountains of Switzerland are truly amazing. I would have loved to have been there a month earlier for more snow views. I hope to return to see the areas in all their winter glory some day soon.
TRIP TIPS
Switzerland is VERY expensive. Your best option in this stunning country is self catering lodging; AirBnB or Aparthotels. Save money by cooking in your hotel. Even the simplest of lunches will run you $35/person. COOP is the local chain and I found most of them to be quite good.
Switzerland does not use the Euro. If you have a Euro debit/credit card, check foreign transaction fees before using.
The scenic trains like the Glacier Express and Bernina Express are lovely and have big, panoramic windows. However, they do not open. Taking a local train won’t have the same amenities, but you can open the windows to get better pictures. I think the best way to do this, if you have time, is to take the panoramic train and make notes then take a local train, getting on an off in the places that looked the nicest.
At the beginning of January, a friend posted one of those silly little quiz or question things on Facebook. It said something like, “whatever was the number one song the week of your 21st birthday will be your motto for the year. Mine was, believe it or not, Walk Like an Egyptian. I arrived in Egypt a few days after that FB post for two weeks of nonstop travel with the Smithsonian. Never has a stupid internet post been so appropriate; well, at least not for me.
Cairo defines sensory overload. It is all at once noisy, spiritual, dirty, and beautiful. The never ending din of sirens, car horns and construction equipment create a kind of white noise that is somehow soothing. Over this cacophony, five times a day, the chant of call to prayer reminds you of the mysticism of this magical place. I can’t say I loved Cairo, but it did feel oddly familiar.
Old CairoMosque of Muhammad Ali
Islam is the primary faith of Egypt, but there are a number of Christians (Coptic) as well. Old Cairo shows its Coptic history with pride. There is even a significant Jewish population, but the old synagogue is currently closed for restoration.
St George’s Church in Old Cairo
But, let’s face it. We don’t visit Cairo for the beautiful mosques and churches. We come for the Pyramids. They do not disappoint. These structures, the only remaining wonders of the ancient world, were built over 4,500 years ago!!! Standing in front of them and walking around them simply takes your breath away.
Click on the arrows for the slide show.
One benefit of travel during a pandemic is we had them ALMOST to ourselves. And before you get snarky, no I did not photoshop out the other tourists. I will also say that our amazing guide knew how to get us around to avoid crowds.
After a couple of days in Cairo, we boarded a pre-dawn flight (the first of several) to Aswan. Although we were now south of Cairo, we were in UPPER Egypt. It’s seemingly backwards because the Nile flows north.
The Nile created Egypt. The fertile land around its banks and established by the annual floods allowed an Empire to flourish for nearly three thousand years. Today, it’s waters are used both for sustenance and power but also for transport and recreation.
I loved the colorful boats that ferry people back and forth.
The feluccas, still an important mode of transport, are beautiful to see and fun to sail on.
This young boy followed us on a few trips.
The birds that also call the river their home made me happy each time I saw them.
I went out one day on our Nile cruise early in the morning to capture birds and was treated to baloons.
IfI ever get back to Egypt, I’m gonna take one of those balloon rides.
Along the Nile are the temples and we visited a-LOT of them. Philea, Kom Ombo, Karnak, Abu Simbel, Luxor, the list goes on. We also went to Valley of the Kings and visited some more pyramids. I will save all that for the next post since I have to get myself organized to move in to my new apartment on Tuesday. It’s all very exciting!!!
Okay, so I know it’s been a while since I last checked in. A long while.
In case you are unaware, there is a clinical condition called Photo Phatigue. (Lisa M., back me up on this) It commonly presents after one spends far too much time going through pictures of animals. So, while I still have pictures of Uganda and Kenya to go through, I needed a break.
After a very busy holiday season, I came to Rome in what I thought would be a slow(er) season. WRONG! Turns out the first week of January is almost as busy as summer. It was an Epiphany (pun intended). Lucky for me, I don’t mind getting up before sunrise to get somewhere before the hoardes of other tourists. Well, I don’t mind too much.
The first morning I walked at dawn to St Peters. The views in the city were well worth the early hour and chilly air.
Castelo St Angelo Dome of St Peter’s
Even The Penguin and St Joseph were in awe of the sights.
Once we all arrived at St Peter’s, we were in awe. Now, we’ve all seen a number of cathedrals and churches all over the world, but this one pretty much outshines almost all the others.
Inside St Peter’sThe Papal Altar. Only the Pope can officiate from here.
Inside the walls of the world’s smallest country, there are also the Vatican Museums and The Sistine Chapel. Here is where the crowds really appeared. Walking throught the halls of the museum was like leaving a Who concert in the 80’s. We weren’t able to go into the Rafael Hall so there is now a reason to return to Rome some time in the future (and in Februrary). The main halls were still stunning.
And, one of the halls had my favorite Roman god.
Bacchus, God of Wine
The Sistine Chapel is at the end of the museum halls. Pictures are not allowed, but I managed to sneak one with my phone as we were leaving. It’s amazing to think that Michelangelo completed this in only 4 years!
After a couple of days of religious viewings, it was time for some Italian culture. What better way to accomplish this than with a walking food tour. We started with sausages and hams, tried pizza (gluten free for me) and some tasty thistles.
I took it easy the next day but in the evening I did a night tour of Rome, on Segway! Segways and cobblestones are not the best combination and I have the bruises to prove this. Despite the crash, it was fun.
The crowds of Rome around the Epiphany made some of the sights in the center too crowded to maneuver on a Segway. But, we still got to see some great things. The Forum at night is pretty special.
Penguin had a good time, too.
The Colloseum and the Forum are more impressive in the daylight.
Colosseum exteriorInterior
Our archeologist guide gave us some insight into what went on here. Gladiator games were common events as were public executions where criminals and traitors were fed to wild animals. I don’t think ancient Rome was a very nice place to live.
We climbed to the top level on some pretty scary steep steps. I was very glad they had upgraded the ancient architecture with handrails. The views fromt the top where great.
Penguin tries to make friends with the locals
As my visit to the Eternal City was coming to an end, I did something you can pretty much only do here. I went to the Papal Audience. Since we were now past the Epiphany, and it was pretty cold, the crowds were remarkably small. We got pretty good seats.
The bottom picture is at the end of the audience when they brought a live circus on stage for everyone’s entertainment. Not kidding.
Since His Holiness blessed everyone and any religious items we had brought, Joe was positively euphoric. I know you can’t tell from his expression, but he was simply beaming.
We are all glad to be home now. The Penguin, Joe and I wish everyone a very happy new year. There are some fun trips planned for 2020, so stay tuned.
There are several challenges to keeping up with blog posts in Africa. The first is probably the more obvious: a serious lack of decent internet connections. The second, is less obvious, unless you have been to Africa: you take so many bleeping photos that it takes forever to sort through them. Both of these are the biggest reasons for my now being weeks behind in posts.
One of the most special things we saw here were the Painted Dogs (AKA the African Wild Dog). They are very rare and very endangered.
Hwange is a national park a few hours south of Victoria Falls. It is a lovely park with great animal viewing and wonderful birds. The elephants are particularly abundant and seem to have great fun.
Lions live here as well. This majestic male was far away but so exciting to see.
I am always happy to see giraffes. They are so wonderful to watch. The way they move and the their goofy faces. What is a group of giraffes called?
A Tower of Giraffes. They’re called something else if they are moving.
And of course, more Impalas. Africa Fast Food.
Zebras also abound. The stripes serve to confuse predators. When they run, the cats can’t tell where on zebra ends and the other begins. When you see a group of them, you get it. Do you know what a group of zebras is called?
A Dazzle of Zebras
Continuing with our collective noun trivia, a group of baboons is called a parliament of baboons. I think this relates to the British House of Commons’ reputation for disruptive and reckless behavior during debates, but I have no evidence of this.
In addition to the wonderful mammalian sights, there are wonderful birds. I never get tired of seeing birds. I am getting close to being a geek who never leaves the house without binoculars.
Male Ostrich. Buzzard. HawkHammer HeadLilac Breasted Roller
Then there are the birds whose names I have forgotten. Sorry birds. I still love you.
After a couple of days at the park in Zimbabwe it was time to head to our next destination, Botswana. We boarded a bush plane for the brief flight over the Okavango Delta to our next lodge. MackAir Botswana has a sense of humor.
Obviously, an adventure was avoided on this flight.
South Africa is an amazing place, from the beauty and vibrancy of Cape Town to the game reserves in the eastern part of the country.
Cape Town is truly a world class city. Stunning scenery, gorgeous gardens, and a fabulous food and wine scene. One really needs a week to truly experience the city and surrounding areas. Unfortunately, I only had a few days.
My first day, I went to the game reserve of Inverdoorn. I am glad I did it because I got to practice with the new camera, but if you are visiting the country and planning to go east, you can skip the reserves near the Cape. Still, I managed to get a few choice pics.
A giraffe’s tongue can reach 20 inches in lengthWildebeest are considered one of the “UGLY 5”The babies aren’t even that cute. The Oryx is a beautiful antelope and this is the only place so far I have seen one.I was excited to see my first Ostrich. He was less impressed with me.Male Ostrich are black, because they sit on the eggs at night.Females are grey to blend in during the day.Babies blend in perfectly to their surroundings.Birds are cute, but less colorful than in other parts of the country.But sometimes the picture about more than just the bird.
After a day in the game park, spending some time in the city was required. What a stunning place.
Table Mountain is to Cape Town what Pao de Acucar and Corcovado are to Rio. Visible from all parts of the city and dominating all views.
Cape Town Harbor
While the city itself is fun, it is the cape itself that really shines. Stunning coastal views with almost unreal shades of blue.
We finished the day back in the center of town where Penguin made a new friend,
After a few days in Cape Town, we headed east to the game reserves. Stay tuned.
Has it really been almost 2 months since I last posted? I would like to say it is because I have been off somewhere really remote and exotic, but that is not the case.
I was in the USA for a couple of months. Initially I was hoping to be there for only a couple of weeks, but I had dental issues that had to be dealt with. Apparently, I am the only person in the world who does not know how long cosmetic dental proceedures really take. Oh well, it gave me time to visit some nice spots and see friends.
First off, I went to Arizona and enjoyed the desert, yoga and spa visits. I went on some nice desert walks and experienced spectacular scenery.
The cacti in Arizona are really interesting. Some look spooky and some can be cartoon like. And even some can be like a piece of art.
After Arizona, I went to Santa Rosa for four weeks. When it wasn’t dumping rain, I went on hikes with my friends Debbie and Sherri and met new friend Jenny.
It was wildflower season and I had a great time playing with my old camera and a new one. The colors of the flowers are just incredible. I have gotten really in to taking pictures of flowers, which, unfortunately, will mean a new lens down the road. Meanwhile, I am learing with what I have.
With all of the rain N. California got in the spring of this year, the forests were an incredible sight. Shades of green rarely seen in the Golden State and rushing waterfalls.
Hiking around, there are still some signs of the devastating fires 18 months ago. Nature is nothing if not resillient and from disaster has sprung new birth and beauty.
In addition to hikes in the forest and hills around Sonoma County, I also hit the state beach one day. I will get those pictures posted later this week. It’s late now and I have an early morning flight.
Okay, I am now even FURTHER behind. So far behind that I am writing this in a hotel room in Buenos Aires the day before heading to Ushuaia and my Antarctica trip.
Jordan was incredible. To save time, I am just going to post pictures. Sorry I don’t have time to be creative with verbage.
Outside of the capitol, Amman (which I Now know is pronounced Ah-MAN and not Ahh – mon) are the ruins of Jerash. These are some of the most impressive Roman ruins I have ever seen.
Petra was the next big site and what most people come to this beautiful country to see. It did not disappoint.
Slot Canyon heading in to PetraShopkeepers in PetraPetra rocksBuggy in the slot canyonPetra TreasuryPetra Treasury columnsRoman arch in PetraTired penguin and Joe
Pictures just cannot do justice to Petra, or Wadi Rum, our next stop.
One evening we took a cooking class. It was a lot of fun, but I will say they need to get their knives sharpened.
On one of our last days, we visited the River Jordan…more like the Jordan Muddy Creek. On the other side of the water is Israel. It is so good that these two countries get along now.
THE END
P.S. As I mentioned above, I will be getting on a plane to Ushuaia and from there on to a boat to Antarctica. I will be gone for 3 weeks and internet connectivity will be pretty sparse if it exists at all. If I do manage a signal somewere, I will try to post a picture of a penguin or whale. Otherwise, stay tuned for a long post in January.
I wish all of you a very happy holiday season and all the best for the New Year. Stay safe and warm. Can’t wait to see everyone in 2019.
I am so far behind in my posts. Israel was so amazing I had no time or energy to deal with pictures and posting. So, pictures won’t have that much description.
After Jeruselem, we traveled to the West Bank. If you didn’t know, Bethlehem is in the West Bank. We also visited a Palestinian refugee camp and heard about the politics from the Palestinian perspective (the previous evening we had a lecture with a rabbi).
The key symbolizes the homes the regugees left behind.
Wall art in the West Bank.Church of the Nativity in Bethlehem.Mosaic at the church of the Nativity.Joe was happy to be back in his homeland.
After the West Bank, we continued on to Masada. Truly an amazing Roman Fortress. The picutres didn’t look like much when I tranfered them, but this barraks shot can give you an idea of the site. Definately worth a visit.
After an AMAZING 8 days in Israel, we crossed the border in to Jordan.
Oman was an interesting and wonderful stop along the Journey. So different than any place else I have been so far.
First, let me dispel any misconceptions you may or may not have about this Gulf country. It is absolutely, positively, 100% safe. Safer than most cities in the USA. The people are warm and friendly and genuinely want you to love their country. Like other Gulf countries, Oman imports a good portion of its labor force. There are many people working in the country who are from Pakistan, India, Bangladesh, etc. If you encounter someone who is a bit surly, they are probably not Omani.
Tourism in Oman is in its infancy. There is not the same level of infrastructure or service you see in Dubai and Abu Dhabi. This has a good side and not so good side. The good is that it is not very crowded and you get to see what the country is really like. The not so good is that the hotels and restaurants are not up to the standards you find in other countries.
I began my visit in Muscat, the capitol. This is a lovely sea-side city which is rich in history while also looking to the future.
The first stop on my tour was to the Grand Mosque which is mind-blowingly beautiful.
The inside of this mosque is as impressive as the outside.
The chandelier inside the mosque is the worlds largest and one of the worlds prettiest.
The Penguin and Joe enjoyed the visit as well. Joe is glad to be back in the desert.
The royal palace is an equally impressive structure. The colored columns make the palace unique.
It’s even more impressive at night.
The Muscat Fort is an historical structure that offers great views back down to the city.
The day ended with a sunset cruise along the coast. Oman is famous for its frankincense incense, so there is a large, very cool replica of a burner along the coast. The sun setting behind it makes it look like a spaceship.
After Muscat, I headed to Nizwa. This mountain city is known for its fort, castle and GOAT SOUK!!
The Goat Souk starts in the early morning and people from all over come to buy and sell goats; men, women and children. The goats are walked along a “runway” and if you are interested, you wave. The only thing that has changed in the past hundred years or so is that now people have smartphones!
After the goats, we visited the fort and castle.
And inside both fort and castle we were treated to a show by the some of the local tribesmen.
A visit to Oman would not be complete without a stay in the desert. The camp was nice, but the scenery was better.
And what trip to the dessert would be complete without a camel experience.
I made friends with one in the camp and then got to ride one later the same day.
There was a lot more I saw in Oman, but these were the best bits. A big thank you to my wonderful guide, Omar. He was knowledgeable and so very kind. He even made friends with Penguin. He was the best representative his country could have had.
Stay tuned for the UAE!
And, for my followers and readers in the USA, a very Happy Thanksgiving. Stay warm and have a piece of pumpkin pie for me.
