Greetings all. I hope those of you in the Southern US and Southern Europe are keeping cool. Here in Antwerp we are enjoying temps in the 20s (low 70s F). Not that I want to rub it in.
Getting back to the travel part of this blog…
In March of this year I did a whirlwind trip to see family in the US. The passing of an uncle in 2021 reminded me of the people I care about in the US (both blood and chosen family) and being overseas means I had to be purposeful about seeing them. It was such a wonderful trip! Exhausting, but really, really wonderful.
I arrived at SFO where I spent the night and then boarded another flight the next day to LAX. Yes, I know I should have flown into LAX to begin with, but I purchased the transatlantic part of the ticket months earlier before other plans had been finalized.
From LAX, I rented a car and drove to San Diego where I spent one night with my cousin Kevin and his wonderful wife Pat. I had such great time hanging out with them and getting to know their kids a bit better. After Kev’s house, I went to stay with my mother’s friend Susan and her husband Mike. Sue is like an aunt to me as she and my mom were as close as sisters.
Sue and Mike live in Coronado, a wonderful small island just off San Diego. We also went to their house in the Anza Borrego desert. This was such a treat. I have always loved the desert but this year, after all the rains in California, it was just incredible. The flowers created a carpet of color and, since the storms were still brewing, the skies added an additional layer of drama into the landscape and the photos. I also finally saw a roadrunner and made a new friend: Jack.
After San Diego and Anza Borrego I went back up to LA to visit with more family. I stayed with my Aunt Anne and her husband Steve. My cousin Gen also lives in LA and my cousin Lisa flew down from Washington State. We had one big family dinner to celebrate my uncle Kevin’s birthday. It was such an nice mini-reunion. I want to give a shout-out again to Auntie Anne for putting it all together. I hope we can do it again soon. I miss you guys!!!
Before leaving Southern California I went out to Joshua Tree National Park for a night. For European U2 fans, yes, there really are Joshua Trees and they look just like the ones on the album. Fun fact: Joshua Trees are not actually trees. They are succulents and part of the yucca family. The park was just as interesting and beautiful as I remembered and the snow capped mountains were like icing on a desert cake. It’s a lot more built up now but when I was going there in the 1990’s, it was just a mere “national monument.”
I finished up my trip to the USA with a too-short stay in Missouri with my friend Barb and a couple of days in SF before flying back to Belgium. It was great to see friends in SF, and the City by the Bay will always hold a special place in my heart.
TRIP TIPS
I did rent a car on this trip. If you have a foreign license, as I now do, SIXT rental car is probably your best bet. It was super easy and the car comes with the mandatory liability insurance all non-US drivers must purchase. They also have a lot of fun cars if you want something a bit more zippy than your standard sedan.
If you are flying in to SFO or leaving super early, the Grand Hyatt at the airport is a great option. Yes, they are more expensive than the ones off terminal, but here you are but a few air-train stops from your airline departure counter. If you want a hotel that’s a bit more economical, there are myriad choices within a few miles and most have free shuttles.
If you don’t have Global Entry yet, it is well worth the money and is open to some non-citizens/permanent residents as well as all US citizens. Depending on your credit card, the fee may actually be covered. Global Entry includes TSA Precheck (not vice-versa) and will have you through passport control in mere minutes. Once you are approved and your photo has been registered, facial recognition technology scans you and nobody even asks to see your passport. And before any of you conspiracy theorists say something about the facial recognition being an invasion of your privacy, do you really think they aren’t already photographing everyone that comes in through passport control? For more information and to check eligibility, click here. One note, while filling out your application, have your old passports for reference. I think I had to list EVERY country I have been to.
I am not really even sure where to begin after so much time. But, If I put off getting back on the blog-bus, I may never re-board. So, here goes.
The last few months of 2022 were pretty much a blur. I went to southern Spain in November and had a wonderful time. When I got back I messed up the editing of all my photos. Essentially, I exported all of them in the wrong format. Still haven’t gone back to fix this but hopefully the raw files (digital equivalent of a negative) are all still okay. I’ll circle back to Spain later.
After an exhausting 2022, I started 2023 like a horse out of the gate. I spent New Years in Paris with my good friend Deirdre who came to visit from the US. A couple of weeks after that I headed to the Lofoten Islands and then a return trip to Norway a few weeks later to experience Oslo. The Oslo trip really wasn’t planned in advance. I had miles on Norwegian Airlines (left over from when they still flew across the Atlantic) that were going to expire. Yes, those loyalty programs really do work.
The Lofoten Islands are magical. Unfortunately, the photographer leading the group was extremely unprofessional and pretty much a jerk, so the trip was not as great as it could have been. We also had pretty sucky weather; lots of rain with strong winds and unfortunately, very little snow. There weren’t a lot of opportunities to be outside with our cameras. On the upside, I got enough of a taste of this incredible outpost that I am already trying to figure out how to get back.
Oslo is just an amazing city. World Class. If you remember, I was there briefly before the Greenland trip with my friend Emily, so when I had a free ticket, no arm twisting was required. I loved the center of the city with Oslofjord, the harbor and the opera house. Everything in this stunning capital begs to be photographed. I think I could have spent three more days just wandering the streets and taking pictures.
The city also has this amazing park called Frognerparken. It has wonderful walking paths, sculptures, fountains and even a waterfall. Since I was there in winter, I was treated to snow and a bit of ice. In the summer I have no doubt the gardens are incredible. It’s about 30 minutes from the center on the city’s excellent public transportation and definitely worth a visit.
Norway is always wonderful and stunningly beautiful. Most people visit in summer but I actually think summer is the least interesting season here. I loved winter in both Lofoten and Oslo and several years ago I visited with my mother in spring. The light outside of the summer months puts everything in a glow that is difficult to experience at lower lattitudes. It’s like a perpetual golden hour. Move this country to the top of your bucket list now.
TRIP TIPS
The Lofoten Islands are located just inside the arctic circle in Norway. You can either fly from Bodo or take the ferry. I flew, but I think next time I would take the ferry, for no other reason than I like boats. If you are at all apprehensive about flying, this might not be the best mode for you. Small plane + high winds = bumpy ride. That said, these pilots are probably the best in the world at flying in bad weather.
When traveling in the more challenging parts of our planet, I recommend scheduling buffer days. This way, if weather or some other force majeure delays your chosen mode of transport, you have a day to figure it out.
The roads in Lofoten are very well groomed and all rental vehicles are outfitted with studded tires in the winter. That said, it is still the Arctic in winter. If you are not comfortable driving in snow, best to book a tour.
Oslo is expensive. Let’s just acknowledge that and move on. Still, it is worth staying downtown so you can walk around easily and enjoy the city. I booked a single room at the City Box. City Box hotels are one step above a youth hostel. The rooms themselves are clean and extremely basic. The common areas not so clean. I booked a single room which had barely enough room to swing a cat. Book a double if you plan to stay here more than one night. You will thank me later.
Getting to the city center from the airport is super easy. Use the Flytoget train from inside the airport terminal to the main station. Fast, clean, and plenty of space for luggage. Click here for more details: https://flytoget.no/en/
Does Dolce Vida work for all of Italy or just one part? Have to admit, I do not know the answer to that.
Anyway, last month Penguin and I took a two and a half week rail trip through north-central Italy. We started in Lake Como and finished up in Assisi. It was a great time with some spectacular scenery.
The first stop was in Lake Como, noted for being the favorite holiday spot of the glitterati. It is so much more than a playground for the rich. The main city, Como, is lovely with some nice cafes and a stunning cathedral. This is where you will probably want to be based as it offers the best connections and services. It is worth spending a half a day.
There are myriad small towns around the lake, each with it’s own character. An excellent, albeit slow, ferry system connects the towns as does a decent bus system. I visited Bellagio, Varenna and Nesso. I stopped at a couple of others, but not for much longer than a ferry change. Bellagio is the most famous of the lake towns and was my least favorite. It is really a tourist trap and very crowded. It reminded me of those towns on an Alaskan Cruise where crappy shops hit you in the face as soon as you disembark. I would suggest skipping Bellagio. The nearby town of Menagio, just across the water, is rumored to be better, although ferry times didn’t allow me to visit.
The ferry ride itself is wonderful and scenic. The lake reminds you of fjords and the views of all the different towns never cease to impress. The towns Varenna and Nesso are both wonderful. Varenna has an amazing old villa (Villa Monastero) with beautiful gardens and stunning views of the lake. There are also old villas around town you can visit and the town waterfront is a great place to enjoy lunch and the views. Varenna easily warrants a full day. It is also one of the few towns where walking around is a relatively flat endeavor.
Nesso is a bit of a different experience. It is VERTICAL. You arrive lakeside where you can see a lovely bridge and a pretty little waterfall. If you want to see the town, you must climb. So, I climbed. At the top, you are rewarded with a lovely cafe and a stunning view. Up top, I walked along the road to see more of the area and then hopped a bus back to Como. Walking back DOWN the thing I had climbed up was not something my knees were up for.
Slide show. Please use arrows to navigate.
After getting back into town, I walked along the lake back to my hotel. There was speedboat race going on and this funny duck that kept trying to scratch himself. It occurs to me now that he may not have been well. I do hope he is, and that he finally got that itch.
Lake Como and her lovely towns warrant so much more than a few days. I would love to spend more time exploring farther up the lake. Another place to add to the list of return destinations. That list may be getting longer than the original bucket list.
After Como, I headed to Verona. I chose this town not because I had an overwhelming desire to see Verona but because it was conveniently located as a place to break up a train journey between Como and Cinque Terra.
Despite not being high on anyone’s list, Verona is lovely and I would recommend a visit. The city feels like a smaller version of Florence and Venice combined, and clearly has influences from both. There are several amazing churches to visit and the walk around town is nice. It also lacks the throngs of tourists that make so many other Italian locations unpleasant these days. I did NOT visit Juliet’s house as this is something just constructed for tourists.
Cinque Terra was the next stop and I have to tell you, I was underwhelmed. The towns are lovely, but there are SO MANY PEOPLE, and this was in October. I cannot even imagine what it must be like in high season. Also, the towns really all blend together. I was there for 4 days and it was a bit too much. I was able to visit Portofino as well, so that was a plus. I would say you could see absolutely EVERYTHING here in 3 days, including Portofino. You really don’t need that much time in each town.
Cinque Terra is actually a national park, although many people live and work there. It is famous for the beauty of the five towns (Cinque meaning five) and steepness of the hills on which the people have farmed for generations. Today, most of the commercial agriculture is viticulture and the local wines are lovely. The fourth picture in the slideshow below shows a vineyard on the impossibly steep hill. It might be worth it to return one day just to watch the harvest!!!
I stayed in La Spezia on the southern end of “the park” thinking it would make it easier to get around and offer better services than the smaller towns. I was right. I would recommend staying either in La Spezia in the south or Levanto in the north and then take the train and/or ferry to the different towns. If you only have one day, take the ferry . You will get much better views from the water. The train runs very frequently and it is very easy to get on and off. Get your tickets at any station. You can buy a day pass. The ferry sells single ticket or hop-on/off tickets. They are sold at the dock in each town. If you want to do the hike from between the towns (route closed due to a landslide at time of writing) you will need a permit which is available at any tourist office in any of the towns.
As I said, the views of the towns are best from the water and they ARE stunning. I can’t decide which one was my favorite. On my first day I got to Monterosso al Mare before sunrise which was wonderful. I really liked Riomaggiore.
Slide show. Please use arrows to navigate.
Since I had time, I also visited Portofino and I think I liked it better than any of the Cinque Terra towns. It is definitely a place geared for the wealthy, but in mid-October on an overcast day, it was lovely and calm. I enjoyed the walk through town and up to the church on the top of the hill. Penguin enjoyed seeing all the boats and being close to water.
Slide show. Please use arrows to navigate.
After the coast, I headed to what was my favorite stop on this trip: ASSISI (as in St Francis of…). It is twinned with my hometown of San Francisco and is even more of a challenge to walk up and down. Assisi is best known as a pilgrimage destination and definitely has a spiritual character. However, even non-religious and/or non-Catholics will appreciate the beauty of this old town on a hill. And, if the spirit moves you, there are plenty of places for quiet reflection and to ponder what St Francis means in 21st century life.
One of my best ideas on this stop was to get up before sunrise and enjoy the little city as it started to wake up. It also made for some of the best pictures. I love to walk around cities before dawn. It is gives you a different experience and you have the place almost to yourself!
The basilica itself is truly amazing, one of the most incredible churches I have EVER seen (and I have seen a LOT). Photos of the inside are not permitted, but I did manage to sneak a couple from the doorways. I understand why they are not permitted. During the pilgrimage period, with all the crowds, it would be a selfie stick nightmare. I am so happy I got to be there in the off season.
This slideshow is the longest of this post. Please use the arrows to navigate so you don’t miss any of them.
The last stop in Italy was just a stopover: the mountain town of Domodossola. The town itself is nothing to get excited about. However, not far away is something worth seeing if you are in the area. In the town of Re there is an enormous church called the Sanctuary of Our Lady of Blood. (If you follow me on Instagram, you will remember I posted a picture of this church and said to check the blog for the story.) This is an enourmous structure in a very small town and there seems to be no reason why the church should be there. Well, it exists because of a miracle. In 1494 some boys throwing rocks at the local church when one hit a fresco of the Virgin Mary, called Nursing Madonna. The following morning, the Madonna in the fresco started to bleed and continued bleeding for 20 days. The church became a pilgrimage sight and was expanded and rebuilt several times. The church one sees today was completed in the mid 20th century. Local signage at the Sanctuary says the bleeding fresco is removed from the altar of the church every year on the anniversary of the miracle, so the faithful can experience it.
TRIP TIPS
1. In Como, try to arrive at the Como Lago train station and NOT the bigger San Giovani Station. Como Lago station is right in the center of where you want to be vs San Giovani, which is at the top of a steep hill accessible by stairs only (or car from the other side). See below map with arrow. There are direct trains to/from Como Lago and Milan.
2. The ferry company for Lake Como is the Navigazione Laghi. It operates year-round, but times differ by season. You will want to check the schedule in advance. You can find the information here: https://www.navigazionelaghi.it/risultati?lake=Como . However, times can change without notice, so only use the information as a guide. I do not recommend purchasing tickets in advance as the website is not very user friendly and information not very current. Just go REALLY EARLY (like 07:30) on the day you want to travel.
Review the map online of the route and plan where you want to go in advance. Have a backup in mind when you go to the ticket office. Your first ferry choice may be full.
As mentioned above, the ferries are SLOW. There is a fast boat which costs more. If you want to spend more time exploring the towns, the fast boat is your best option. When I visited October, 2022, you could ONLY purchase tickets on the fast boat the day-of and in person.
The buses run longer hours than the ferry. A good option is to take the ferry to the town you want to explore and then take the bus back. Bus stops are clearly marked in towns. Ask a local for help. Everyone here is very friendly and most speak at least a bit of English.
3. In Cinque Terra, you can travel by train or ferry. The train is the fastest and better for getting on and off to explore the towns. The ferry gives you the best views. If you only have one day (and you are staying in La Spezia), take the ferry and get off at one of the towns for lunch, explore a bit, and then return on by ferry. If you have two days, do both.
If you are arriving in La Spezia on a cruise, book the earliest ferry (+/- 9am) in advance if possible. The cruise terminal is about 1/2 mile from the ferry stop over very easy FLAT pavement. This could save you some euro vs booking an excursion from the cruise line.
If you want to hike between the towns, check first if they are open by going to: https://www.cinqueterre.eu.com/en/footpaths-cinqueterre . This site also has information about train and hiking fees, so it is probably a good source of information for planning. At time of writing, the cost for hiking was 7.50 euro/day, but only one path was open.
4. In Assisi, try to stay in the actual old town up on the hill. There is a good bus from the train station which runs every 30 minutes. Buy your ticket from tabak shop inside the station. The town with the train station is not very interesting and is a bit far from the sights. If you have a car, you can stay in the valley between the new city and the old, but I would not recommend it without a car. There are no amenities there so getting food or morning coffee.
The below map shows the bus route from the train station up to the hill and old city. Look for hotels near where the red stars are. The star on the left is the first stop just outside the city walls. There are a couple of hotels close to this stop but EVERYTHING from there is uphill. The star in the middle/top is the very last stop and is at the top of the hill. Everything from there is downhill. Keep in mind that all the streets are cobblestone. Only local cars are permitted inside the city walls. No rental cars. Also, it is unclear if taxis are allowed. I got mixed answers. The other stops along the blue line are just along the city wall and not ideal locations for a hotel.
The title of this post became our mantra every time we were cold or were fighting with the sleeping area in the camper van. I went with my friend Deirdre (from Ireland) and we really did have a great time. A camper van is the best way to do Iceland if you want to see a lot and don’t want to spend a ton of Krona.
We started off in Akureyri, in the north of Iceland. Deirdre met me there when I got off the ship from Greenland. We walked around Akureyri for a bit and then headed out for a nine-night road trip along the East Coast of Iceland.
I am not going to write about the trip chronologically. That would be tedious and frankly almost impossible since most of the place names are (for us) unpronounceable and, when written, look like a bad Scrabble hand.
As I said, this was a road trip. The roads were generally good, but I didn’t do the driving. Every time we turned a bend, we were treated to scenery that was even more spectacular than before. The roads themselves seem to want to show you the beauty of this country.
Click on arrows to view slideshow.
Iceland is the land of Fire & Ice. We didn’t get to the active volcanoes, but we did experience the effects of the “fire” in the thermal areas. Hot steam escapes from the earth creating an other-worldly landscape. This geothermal activity also gives Iceland about 99% of the energy it needs.
And in the south of the country, the energy escapes as water in the famed Geysir.
When researching this trip, there was one place I knew I wanted to go: Studlagil Canyon. It is a shallow canyon, but the basalt columns make it different from any other canyon you have ever seen. The river that runs through it is blue in the Spring, but we had to settle for the murky brown of Autumn. It was still incredible. Getting there is an all day detour from the coast road and requires a good walk from the parking area, but is definitely worth it. It’s location away from the main road and only being accessible by foot means no big tour buses. It does not, however, mean you will have the place all to yourself. The secret of this once hidden gem is out.
We happened upon another canyon during our drives. I don’t remember the name of it, but it was still impressive. Maybe Dierdre, when reading this post, will comment with the name. She took notes.
We got lucky to be there when the light was just about perfect.
Fjords aren’t something people always talk about when they sing Iceland’s praises. But they are there and they are stunning. Different than in Norway or New Zealand, but still stunning. The drive down to them was a bit harrowing and is not something Deirdre would like to repeat. We survived and were treated to magnificence.
Click on arrows to view slideshow.
Waterfalls are what people talk about. There are a LOT of them; as many as 10,000 by some estimates. We certainly didn’t see even close to that many and I have not even included all the ones we did see. We did love them all, even the small ones.
Click on arrows to view slideshow.
Godfoss
Skagafoss
Detifoss
Now, waterfalls are generally part of rivers. Rivers generally lead to the sea. In the Land of Fire & Ice, there is a glacier that calves in to a river which then carries large pieces of ice to the sea. Where this happens is called the Ice Lagoon. Even after seeing all the ice in Greenland, it was pretty cool!
The glacier that contributes all of this ice is enormous. In the picture below, look for the black dot just off the center, to the right of the floating blue ice. That is a zodiac boat. In case you are unfamiliar with zodiac boats, they are about 12 -15 feet (3.5 to 4.5 m) and about 7 feet (2.1 m) wide. Now, think about all that ice melting.
Believe it or not, there is more to Iceland then scenic splendor. The island’s most famous and loved inhabitants are the horses. They are small, sturdy and super friendly. In Iceland, they are long lived and relatively disease free. They have never had any predators, so they don’t spook easily. They enjoy protected status and no foreign horses are permitted in Iceland to maintain the purity of the line. Also, if an Icelandic horse every leaves Iceland it may not return. Pity the poor horse that wanted to explore and was never able to go home.. (Lisa M, I tried to bring one for you but it wouldn’t have been happy in my apartment until March)
On our final night camping, the island seemed to bid us farewell by treating us to an amazing moon. I can only describe it as a half-harvest moon. I had to scramble to get the gear set up to get the shot, but a couple came out. So with these snaps, I shall bid you a good night (or morning).
TRIP TIPS
It will take you longer than you think to drive between places. Distances look close but the speed limit is low (80kmh/48mph MAX). The roads, while good, are small, country, two lane roads with lots and lots of bends. You will also be stopping a lot to enjoy the views and take pictures. Budget your time accordingly. We did nine days and 1/2 the coastal parts of the country.
Do not EVEN THINK about going into the interior of the country without 4WD and the appropriate tires. There are signs telling you what types of vehicles are permitted on what roads. They are there for your safety.
There are many campervan rental outfits in Iceland. We chose CampEasy, since they were the most affordable. I am glad we did not go for the smallest option as this one was was a tight fit. It was fine for two people, although they advertise it as sleeping 4 (no idea how that would work). Look carefully at the pictures of the van you are considering and think about how you will all fit for sleeping and/or dining in bad weather. Get the largest one your budget can handle.
Google Maps works well in Iceland. There is no need to rent a GPS. Do download the map of Iceland to your phone for the few places there is no signal. You will get a good 4G signal in most parts of the main road.
Possibly the best sandwich to be had in Iceland is available from the langoustine truck in the parking lot of the Ice Lagoon. They do a gluten free version as well by putting all the good stuff in a bowl. Who needs bread when you have a bowl full of langoustine. Here is their website: https://heimahumar-local-langoustine-iceland.food96.com/
Watch your speed in all areas. There are speed cameras everywhere. It’s how they pay for the good roads. You don’t want to get a fine on your credit card after you get home.
There are two large grocery chains: Netto & Bonus. Netto is the better stocked chain with global brands. Bonus is cheaper but I didn’t see much in the way of fresh produce. There is a Netto in almost every town. Gluten Free options are easily found in Netto.
Wine, beer and spirits are ONLY available at the government run Vinbudin. Opening hours vary by town but rarely include weekends and almost always end by 5 or 6 pm. Plan ahead.
Campsites range in quality from horrific to quite nice. Google lists them with a little “tent” icon on the map. Look at the star rating and read the reviews. Almost all have kitchen facilities which are much better than cooking on the little burner thing that comes with your van. Campsites can also fill up, especially in summer. Try to pull in early, between 5 & 6pm, and get your spot in the kitchen.
If you have all the time in the world and want to bring your own car or camper, there IS a way to do it. There is a ferry from Denmark that stops first in the Faroe Islands and then continues to Iceland. It’s not cheap, but it is doable. I am thinking about the Faroe Islands in the future. Here’s the link to the ferry company: https://en.smyrilline.fo/
Let me just say first, I really liked Dresden. It’s got a great vibe about it and is very easy to walk around. I can’t quite put my finger on what is so great. It’s fairly modern, since it was pretty much leveled during the war, but there are some reconstructed old buildings and churches to keep it interesting. The people are friendly and there are a ton of little cafes for coffee or wine. It’s one of those cities you could keep going back to just because…
Slide show. Click on arrows to view.
As I said, the city was pretty much flattened by Allied bombing during WWII. To add insult to injury, after war, the city was in the East, and did not get much assistance to rebuild. I’m pretty sure the GDR received no funds from the Marshall Plan and the Soviets sure as sh#t weren’t going to help the Germans. Knowing all of that, it’s amazing how far the city has come since reunification in 1990.
The stunning Dresden Frauenkirche, or Church of Our Lady, in central Dresden was destroyed by Allied bombs. From the end of the war until reunification, the rubble of the destroyed church lay in Dresden as a memorial. Reconstruction began in 1992 and used as many of the old, burned stones as possible. You can see them in the exterior of the church (picture in slide show below). The black stones are the old ones. When the church was rebuilt, the mangled cross from the dome was put inside as a memorial (and reminder). The cross that adorns the dome today was donated by the British. It was a British bomb that destroyed the church in 1945. Today, I think the church stands as a testament to peace, understanding and forgiveness.
Slide show. Click on arrows to view.
One of the best things on this stop was outside the city: The gorgeous Saxon Switzerland National Park. The park is on the border of Germany and the Czech Republic and is definitely worth a visit. I would have loved to have spent more time there. It is supposed to be stunning in Autumn, so I will have to make a plan to return for longer hikes in cooler temps. While Penguin did love being in nature, the heat was a little much for him. He, too, would like to return during a cooler time of the year.
Two of the days I was in Dresden were two of the hottest days of the year, 98F/36.5C and 101/38.3C. As I type this, we are in another heatwave. In Belgium, yesterday it hit 95F/35C and today it could reach 103F/39.4C. Europe is broiling, literally. I read yesterday that a runway melted at Luton airport in the UK. I am glad I bought that portable AC unit in April.
There should be some fun and interesting posts coming up in the next few weeks. Stay tuned and happy travels.
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TRIP TIPS
I used an online tour company to visit Saxon Switzerland Park. This is a good option if you are solo and don’t want to rent a car. The only problem with this approach is you have to follow someone else’s plan and you can only stay one day. If you have more time, rent a car and see more of the park. There are several options inside the park. If you want to stay in a town, Bad Schandau is a great option.
If you are going to go hiking and need any outdoor gear, there is a great shop in Dresden: Globetrotter Equipment. It is a German chain, similar to REI in the USA. The Dresden location is: Prager Str. 10, 01069 Dresden, Germany
This may be my new favorite city in Europe. It’s compact for easy navigation, has a wonderful medieval center which has been lovingly maintained, boasts stunning scenery and has a nice easy going vibe. I spent 3 days here and look forward to going back soon.
Lucerne is on a lake of the same name straddles the Reuss river. The water in the lake is crystal clear and with the surrounding mountains, it reminded me of Lake Tahoe. There wasn’t much snow left on the nearer mountains when I was there, but the place is still strikingly beautiful. I took a boat trip around the lake which was wonderful and Penguin really had a great time. Summer hadn’t fully kicked in yet so the choices were limited. I hope that as tourism rebounds things will be back to full operation.
As you can see, the dramatic weather really made for some cool pictures.
There is also wonderful walking path around the lake which is a great way to spend a morning. The views are stunning and it is great to see locals taking advantage of their wonderful resource. I even saw several people swimming so I am guessing the water isn’t as cold as Lake Tahoe. I got very lucky with this shot on one of my walks along the lake.
Near Lucerne is a mountain area called Jungfrau; nicknamed the Top of Europe. The nickname is a bit misleading as the highest mountain in Europe is actually Mont Blanc, in France. Like the Matterhorn, reaching the top requires the purchase of a pricey ticket and several gondolas or trains. I enjoyed the excursion but it really wasn’t that different from the other mountain tops. The weather was a bit cloudier, so the photos are different. Also, Penguin had a blast inside the glacier. When he saw his cousins, he couldn’t contain his excitement!
As I said, the weather wasn’t that great the days I was there and there were some pretty heavy downpours which isn’t great for pictures. My trusty Dutch rain poncho (https://rainkiss.com/) kept me dry while walking around the town and along the old wall. The views from the wall are wonderful and I am sure really spectacular when it isn’t dumping rain.
I also enjoyed some indoor time at two of Lucerne’s very good museums: The Rosengart Collection and the Kunstmuseum. The Rosengart Collection is really wonderful if you like early 20th century modern art. They have a very good collection of Klee (of course) and a lot of Picasso. They also have a few Kandinskys, Miro’s and Chagalls. If you are in Lucerne, don’t miss the Rosengart Collection.
I really hope to spend more time in Lucerne in the future. I am sure it would be wonderful in Winter. My next stop on this trip was the Czech Republic. I hope to get that post done in the next week or so.
TRIP TIPS
Lucerne is compact and getting around on foot is easy. That said, unless you have a car, try to book a place close to the train station. Walking around with luggage is not fun, especially on cobblestones.
There is a good COOP grocery about three blocks from the train station as well as a COOP Express inside the station. It is very easy to buy items to eat at the stores to avoid spending a fortune at restaurants.
Locals warned me against visiting in November. They say it’s grey and rainy the whole month. Don’t know if that is true, but I thought I would warn you just in case.
This is going to be a quick post, since it really is just about the mountain.
Zermatt, for those who don’t know, is a mountain town at the base of the famous Matterhorn (not just a ride at Disney). I loved finally seeing the Matterhorn, but didn’t care much for Zermatt. The town is REALLY f*cking expensive and I found it to lack a soul. Or, the quote Herb Caen when he wrote about a certain CA city, there’s no there there.
The mountains are stunning and you can take a couple of expensive gondola trips to the top. One of these is worth doing. Don’t do both. If I had to pick one, it would be the Matterhorn Glacier Paradise. The views of the mountain are incredible and you get to go inside a glacier, an opportunity that probably won’t be available for much longer. The endless string of camera wielding tourists going through the glacier probably aren’t helping things.
I am going to leave you with a nice slide show of the scenery. Penguin really enjoyed being in the cold again.
Matterhorn view from town
Happy traveler
More mountain
I love the clouds
They move in and out all day
Color is nice too
I am probably too old to try this, but it looks like a blast
The Bernina Express train near Alp Grum in the Swiss Alps
I‘m on the top of the wor-ld, lookin’ down on creation…..That song went through my head a lot while I was in Switzerland.
After our time in Alsace (FR), we headed for Switzerland. Fresh air, Mountain views…Ahhh. We took the Bernina Expess and the Glacier Express. These two train rides are considered among the most scenic in the world and are part of a network of scenic trains. On my next visit, which will be during winter months, I can connect all the scenic trains and see all the mountains. Can’t wait!
The Bernina Express connects the towns of CHUR and TIRANO (in Italy). I got off the train in Poschiavo, still in Switzerland.
Chur itself doesn’t have much that is terribly interesting, but it is a big enough town that you can get in and out on regular trains to see the surrounding areas. One of things that is close by and fabulous is the Rhine Gorge. It is called the “Grand Canyon of Switzerland” which I think is a bit inaccurate. This gorge IS amazing, but it is alpine and the Grand Canyon is desert. Anyway, It still loved it and loved the hike around it.
Slideshow
After Chur I took the train to Poschiavo. This is a great little town. It’s in Switzerland, but the language and culture are all Italian. It is situated on a beautiful lake which made for nice walks. I loved everything about this little town and hope to visit again some day (again, when there is snow). From Poschiavo you can go back up in to the mountains to see the view you rode past on the way down. If you ever take the Bernina express, make mental notes of the towns that looked nice then go back on the local train.
Slideshow
Close to Poschiavo is the wonderful Glacier Garden at Cavaglia. The local canton (Swiss for county) have spent a fortune making this place accessible and easy to visit. It’s only open in the summer months and as you walk around you understand why. It would be TREACHEROUS in ice.
Slideshow
The mountains of Switzerland are truly amazing. I would have loved to have been there a month earlier for more snow views. I hope to return to see the areas in all their winter glory some day soon.
TRIP TIPS
Switzerland is VERY expensive. Your best option in this stunning country is self catering lodging; AirBnB or Aparthotels. Save money by cooking in your hotel. Even the simplest of lunches will run you $35/person. COOP is the local chain and I found most of them to be quite good.
Switzerland does not use the Euro. If you have a Euro debit/credit card, check foreign transaction fees before using.
The scenic trains like the Glacier Express and Bernina Express are lovely and have big, panoramic windows. However, they do not open. Taking a local train won’t have the same amenities, but you can open the windows to get better pictures. I think the best way to do this, if you have time, is to take the panoramic train and make notes then take a local train, getting on an off in the places that looked the nicest.
One thing that is very important to keep in mind when planning a trip in Europe: DO NOT TRY TO TRAVEL BY TRAIN ON MAJOR HOLIDAYS! Barb and I ended up having to cut our time in France short by a day so we could get to Belgium. Easter weekend is a four day holiday so our attempt to get a train with no reservation was akin to trying to fly stand-by in the US on the Sunday after Thanksgiving. It wall worked out in the end and possibly for the best. But, as they say, lesson learned.
Since we had an extra day in Belgium, we went to Ghent. Bonus for Barb! She got to see St Bavos Cathedral and the famed Ghent Altarpiece. St Bavos is, in my opinion, one of the most incredible cathedrals in Europe. I love Ghent so I am always happy to go. I like it more than Brugge.
After two days and one night at my apartment, we headed off to Amsterdam. Keukenhof awaited and we were both so excited.
For those of you that don’t know, Keukenhof is called Europe’s Garden. I think this is a bit inaccurate since it is only open for about 7 weeks every spring, but it definitely impresses.. It is dedicated to bulbs and no place does this better. Every variety and color combination you can think of is here. There are 79 acres of flowers and after visiting, no other tulip garden will ever come close. Click through the slide show below and see for yourself.
Penguin even had fun tiptoeing through them.
We did other touristy things in Amsterdam, but MY STARS that city is crowded. All mask restrictions are gone so it can be a bit risky.
After 3 days there, I got Barb to the airport and took the train home. The day I got home, I tested positive for Covid. Barb tested negative that same morning so she was able to get on the plane. I spent the next 6 days in isolation in my apartment. Thankfully, since I am fully vaccinated and twice boosted, I didn’t get too sick. Sore throat mostly. Actually a froggy throat. I sounded a lot worse than I felt. A baritone Kermit.
Stay tuned for the next trip. Coming up very soon. Penguin can’t wait.
TRIP TIPS
Rail passes are a great way to get around, BUT, make sure you make reservations during busy seasons and on high speed trains. Most French trains require them and not having them can lead to disappointment and missed connections.
When visiting Keukenhof, get there EARLY!!!! It opens at 8am. Get there when the doors open. Have your ticket in hand (on your phone). To get there, go to Schipol Airport and take an Uber (yes, you can hail an Uber in the Netherlands). There is a shuttle, but it doesn’t start running until 8:30am. Taking an Uber at 7:30 will get you to the garden entrance just before opening. By 11am, the place is PACKED! Woodstock packed. To check on dates, times and ticket availability, click here. Tickets for the following Spring usually go on sale in November.
If, in Amsterdam, you want to visit the Anne Frank house, you absolutely MUST order tickets online and in advance. Tickets go on sale (and generally sell out) well in advance. According to the website, at time of writing, tickets go on sale the first Tuesday of each month for the following month. So, if you want tickets for June, you must buy them on the first Tuesday of May. We missed out. Learn from our mistake. Click Here for more details.
To visit Ghent, take the train to Ghent-St Pieters Station and from there take tram#1 to the center. You can buy a tram ticket from the machine at the tram stop and the machine takes credit cards (only ones with the chip) Buy a return ticket. At time of writing, one return tram ticket was 5 euro.
One final tip. I cannot, unfortunately, recommend the DoubleTree in Amsterdam. I chose this due to it’s proximity to the train station (about a 5 min walk). The hotel is a laundry list of mishaps and bad management. I feel for the veteran staff members, as most of them wanted very much to be able to help. Among the list of problems were non-working keys, broken safe in the room, cable tv that went in and out (mostly out) of service, broken coffee makers (so no coffee) at breakfast, and poorly trained new staff that didn’t know anything about the hotel. Many of the river cruise lines also use this hotel (again, location, location, location) so the reception area is frequently PACKED with confused, jetlagged tourists trying to get help from poorly trained staff. Points be dammed. Next time I will stay elsewhere.
Seems like the Egypt post was just yesterday. Time is just flying by. Since returning from Egypt I have moved in to a new apartment in Belgium. It’s been quite an experience going from Ireland, where all apartments are rented completely furnished, to Belgium, where not even the light fixtures are included. That said, I am happy here. I like having an apartment where it can look a bit like “me” and I love being on the Continent where I can get somewhere relatively fast and easy.
The spring started out exciting. My dear friend Barb came for a visit. What a time we had. I don’t think we stopped moving, except to sleep, for the whole two weeks.
Barb landed on Sunday and we hit the ground running. She did GREAT after her flight from the US. After dropping her stuff at our aparthotel (it’s just as it sounds) in Montmartre, we headed out for breakfast. We found a great natural food place down the hill called SEASON (singular) which not only was healthy food, they had plenty of gluten free options. We visited once more during our stay in Paris. After breakfast, we did the Hop-On Hop Off bus around the city. I find these a great way to see the sights and get your bearings in a new city. Yes, it’s touristy, but when you are a tourist you should own it. Barb had still not hit the jet-lag wall after dinner so we ran out to see Sacre Coeur at night.
The City of Lights was a whirlwind. We walked a lot, took in the Lourve, Orsay, St Chapelle, walked through the Jardin du Luxembourg and pretty much wore out our feet. Penguin enjoyed the museums, especially Orsay and teasing that polar bear.
A real highlight of the Paris leg of the trip was lunch at the Jules Verne restaurant at the Eifel Tower. That lunch is a once in a lifetime experience and we were glad to do it. Wonderful meal, amazing service, but you pay for it. As I said, once in a lifetime…for me anyway.
We made it to Versailles but weather was too awful for the gardens. The palace itself is impressive; however, but if you have been to St Petersburg or Venice, it may leave you a bit underwhelmed. It was my first time their and I am glad to have been.
After Versailles, we rented a car (picking it up OUTSIDE of central Paris) and headed towards Normandy. Barb did a great time driving as we got lost leaving Orsay. Penguin tried to help navigate.
We stopped in Giverny along the way and the gardens were surely showing off. It’s no wonder Monet loved this place so. The famed waterlilies do not bloom until later in the year, but everything else was glorious. If you are ever anywhere close, this is a must see. I would have enjoyed spending a night here, but we had places to go.
We finished our long day of driving in the charming town of Bayeux in Normandy. We really didn’t have much time to explore this town and its stunning, oversized cathedral as our mission here was the D-day beaches. Again, this place deserves a return visit and more time.
The day touring the D-day beaches, towns and museums was both physically and emotionally exhausting. At all of the sites, as we learned about the thousands of allied soldiers and French civilians who perished during the Normandy campaign, I could not help but think about today. During WWII, millions died because of a mad man. Today, another mad man is threatening the world. Looking at all of those headstones, crosses and stars both, made me realize how important standing up to tyrants is and how great we can be when we all work together. We owe a huge debt to the “greatest generation”. Let us never forget for what they all fought.
Never wanting to be too serious, Penguin decided to end the day playing on a period Jeep. Apparently you can rent these things somewhere to tour the area. Again, something to keep in mind for a return trip. Luckily for us, Penguin can’t drive a stick.
Our final day at the coast as spent at Mont St Michel. This has been on my list for a while. It’s quite an ordeal to visit now, so be sure to see the trip tips below. I also would not recommend visiting at Easter. I now know what a lost salmon in September must feel like.
Mont St Michel sits on a BIG rock in a tidal bay. In the morning, it it often obscured by mist allowing it to appear slowly as the sun warms the air, almost by magic (or Divine Providence?).
The view is stunning and the walk through the abbey an amazing journey through religious and architectural history.
One of the most amazing things we experience at the abbey was the noon service. It is not a mass or a service in which you can participate. You can only watch and feel the spiritual energy as the monks and nuns sing. Unfortunately, even after a few attempts, I cannot get the video to load here. You will just have to follow me in Instagram: Laurenglobetrotter.
This concludes the France leg of this trip. After this we did a whoosh through Belgium and Amsterdam. Stay tuned.
Trip Tips:
A new feature of these posts will be trip tips. I do not want to become a travel guide, but I do want to share tips, ideas, what was good and maybe what wasn’t so good. Where relevant, I will include links.
The first tip I want to give anyone traveling to Europe post-Covid is to make sure you have a smartphone with data. Either get a roaming package from home or pick up a sim at the airport on arrival. Everything in Europe is now contactless, from tickets to menus. You will be showing QR codes and scanning them more than you every have before. For all of our entry tickets, I printed PDFs and stored them in a folder on my phone in case I didn’t have coverage. If you are uncomfortable using your phone like this, practice before you leave your home country and get a child or grandchild to show you all the tricks.
In Paris we stayed at the Aparthotel Adagio in Montmartre. It’s an affordable hotel with a small kitchette in a decent location. However, I would not recommend it for stays longer than 4 days since housekeeping and fresh towels are not included in the rate. Also, it can be a little bit of a challenge to get around from there as the metro line which it is on is not one of the more convenient ones.
In Bayeux we stayed at a private vacation rental called La Petit Vahalla. It was very nice and I would recommend it without hesitation. The owners are super nice. The place was big with a good kitchen and we each had our own bedrooms. It also had the best shower I think I have ever used in Europe. I would stay there again just for that shower.
Both of these accommodations were booked online with booking dot com. I use them the most as they seem to have the best options in Europe.
In Paris, I recommend buying the Paris transport ticket for 3 or 5 days. Three zones gets you central Paris only. Five zones will give you the airports and Versailles. Purchase this at a ticket machine in any metro or RER (train) station. Do NOT purchase this in advance. If you are just staying in Paris, you can also opt for a 10 pack of single use metro tickets. You need to have a ticket to both enter and EXIT the station.
Almost EVERYTHING in Europe now has timed entry. This was brought in during Covid and will likely stay. The times are fairly rigid, so think about the slot you book. You do all of this online. If you have the Museum Pass, you still need times entry reservations for the Lourvre and Versailles. You do all of this online.
In Normandy, make sure you visit the Caen Memorial before going anywhere else. It gives you a great introduction to D-day and live in Normandy pre and post invasion. Purchase your tickets online in advance at by clicking here . Note: the button to get the version in English isin the top left of the screen. After that, decide which beaches you want to see. If you get an early start, you can probably fit in a town and three beaches. If you are American, don’t miss the cemetery. The Brits and Canadians also have cemeteries.
Mont St Michel, like everywhere, now has timed entry. What is not mentioned ANYWHERE is the cluster that is now the parking and shuttle system. Allow yourself a minimum of 60 minutes to get to the abbey entrance from the parking area. Even if you walk. It’s 2km from the parking lot and there is a free shuttle, but the queues are long. Google maps is, at this writing, unaware of the situation. The shuttle takes you to the causeway. It is another 20 – 30 minutes walk, most of it up the streets of the rock, to the abbey entrance. There are many sights that sell the entry tickets: GetYourGuide, Viator, etc.
At the beginning of January, a friend posted one of those silly little quiz or question things on Facebook. It said something like, “whatever was the number one song the week of your 21st birthday will be your motto for the year. Mine was, believe it or not, Walk Like an Egyptian. I arrived in Egypt a few days after that FB post for two weeks of nonstop travel with the Smithsonian. Never has a stupid internet post been so appropriate; well, at least not for me.
Cairo defines sensory overload. It is all at once noisy, spiritual, dirty, and beautiful. The never ending din of sirens, car horns and construction equipment create a kind of white noise that is somehow soothing. Over this cacophony, five times a day, the chant of call to prayer reminds you of the mysticism of this magical place. I can’t say I loved Cairo, but it did feel oddly familiar.
Old CairoMosque of Muhammad Ali
Islam is the primary faith of Egypt, but there are a number of Christians (Coptic) as well. Old Cairo shows its Coptic history with pride. There is even a significant Jewish population, but the old synagogue is currently closed for restoration.
St George’s Church in Old Cairo
But, let’s face it. We don’t visit Cairo for the beautiful mosques and churches. We come for the Pyramids. They do not disappoint. These structures, the only remaining wonders of the ancient world, were built over 4,500 years ago!!! Standing in front of them and walking around them simply takes your breath away.
Click on the arrows for the slide show.
One benefit of travel during a pandemic is we had them ALMOST to ourselves. And before you get snarky, no I did not photoshop out the other tourists. I will also say that our amazing guide knew how to get us around to avoid crowds.
After a couple of days in Cairo, we boarded a pre-dawn flight (the first of several) to Aswan. Although we were now south of Cairo, we were in UPPER Egypt. It’s seemingly backwards because the Nile flows north.
The Nile created Egypt. The fertile land around its banks and established by the annual floods allowed an Empire to flourish for nearly three thousand years. Today, it’s waters are used both for sustenance and power but also for transport and recreation.
I loved the colorful boats that ferry people back and forth.
The feluccas, still an important mode of transport, are beautiful to see and fun to sail on.
This young boy followed us on a few trips.
The birds that also call the river their home made me happy each time I saw them.
I went out one day on our Nile cruise early in the morning to capture birds and was treated to baloons.
IfI ever get back to Egypt, I’m gonna take one of those balloon rides.
Along the Nile are the temples and we visited a-LOT of them. Philea, Kom Ombo, Karnak, Abu Simbel, Luxor, the list goes on. We also went to Valley of the Kings and visited some more pyramids. I will save all that for the next post since I have to get myself organized to move in to my new apartment on Tuesday. It’s all very exciting!!!
When I posted last month after visiting Venice, travel looked a lot more feasible and inviting than it does now. In November, I had plans to take a Christmas Market River Cruise on the Danube. By early December, a holiday blending of Delta Surges and Omicron Oozes sent a death blow to Christmas markets all over Europe.
Luckily for my wallet, Ama Waterways has a decent cancellation policy. I was able to cancel the cruise and get full credit towards another cruise in 2022 or 2023. So, stay tuned for what I decide to do on that front. My other luck was making a new friend in the wonderful Sarah who lives in the Jura region of France. She invited me to spend Christmas in her beautiful town of Seyssel and explore the area.
On 18 December, I headed first to Paris. There was an art exhibit I wanted to see.
As the saying goes, Paris is always a good idea. This holds for the Christmas season as well. I did hope to see wonderful light installations and fabulous decorations, and on this, and only this, I was a bit disappointed. There were lights, but nothing that made you go “ooohhhhhhhhhh!” Walking around after dark did make for some pretty night shots.
The exhibit I saw was the Morozov Collection. It is a collection of French and Russian modern and impressionist art that, according to those who write about such things, is unlikely ever to be repeated. It was worth the trip to Paris (for me, being only 2 hours away now). There were a lot of works by people we’ve all heard of (Renoir, Monet, Matisse, etc.) and some new names I look forward to seeing in some other museums. The real jewel was one of Van Gogh’s final works, The Prisoners. Very sad when you learn he was in the asylum just before he painted it and only two months before ending his own life. It’s a powerful piece.
The Prisoners by Van Gogh
The museum, The Louis Vitton Foundation, is a work of art in itself. Designed by Frank Gehry, the style is familiar. Yes, he’s the same guy that did buidlings/structures in Barcelona, New York, Chicago, Bilbao and more. It would be great to return here to see it on a less gray day.
After a few days in Paris, I headed South and East to the Jura region. This picturesque area is at the foot of the Alps and is a great place to visit.
On my first morning, I was up early and took a walk down the hill to the town of Seyssel and the skies greeted me with a lovely picture.
Just after sunrise in Seyssel.
After my walk, the wonderful Sara loaned me her car to head off to Annecy. Four hours is NOT enough time in this special town. I could easily spend a couple of days exploring all the small streets and, yes, canals. I am looking forward to visiting this special town again. Maybe in Spring?
Church of Mary
Lake View
Loved this little patio on the canal.
Gotta show the birds…
View from the canal
Penguin loves bridges and canals. He feels daring.
Town centre
Canal
Annecy town centre
Annecy also had a small Christmas market that was fun to walk around. The rockin’ elves in the town put everyone in the Christmas spirit. Hit play if it doesn’t start automatically. I promise, it’s a short video.
These guys drove all around the town playing for the afternoon.
There is something about snow and the holidays. I know this is Northern Hemisphere bias, but during the holidays I will admit to bias. Especially when you get to experience them around mountains like this. It did not snow while I was there, but the recently fallen (and now melting) snow did create for some challenging driving at higher altitudes. Sarah’s little Opel was not designed for what we asked of it one one day and we got stuck. I should have taken a picture of the car stuck on the ice, but just walking on it was hard enough. I wasn’t about to try to walk with the camera. We eventually got out, using fallen tree branches as traction and myself as weight in the back. Lesson learned…well, maybe. The scenery was spectacular and our little adventure made for great story telling.
The fearless Opel
The Fearless Sarah
My last couple of days were a wonderful mixture of Christmas eve celebrations in Genevea and the lights of Seyssel and a quick daytrip for lunch to Chamonix. Christmas eve was beautifully clear and crisp, making night shots perfect and Chamonix is a great place to really feel like it’s winter. I got to try my first raclette (a dish of melted cheese, charcuterie and potatoes) and see some amazing vistas.
Click on the arrows for a quick slide show.
Geneva
Geneva
Seyssel
Seyssel
Chamonix
New Friend
Now, on this last day of 2021, looking back, it wasn’t so bad. I got to a few new places, made new friends and, stayed healthy. I think we all look forward to a world-wide improvement in health, welfare and travel for the new year. Please stay safe, love your family and friends, and keep looking for reasons to expand your horizons. I hope to have some interesting things to share with you, but don’t want to jynx anything now.
Okay, so I know it’s been a while since I last checked in. A long while.
In case you are unaware, there is a clinical condition called Photo Phatigue. (Lisa M., back me up on this) It commonly presents after one spends far too much time going through pictures of animals. So, while I still have pictures of Uganda and Kenya to go through, I needed a break.
After a very busy holiday season, I came to Rome in what I thought would be a slow(er) season. WRONG! Turns out the first week of January is almost as busy as summer. It was an Epiphany (pun intended). Lucky for me, I don’t mind getting up before sunrise to get somewhere before the hoardes of other tourists. Well, I don’t mind too much.
The first morning I walked at dawn to St Peters. The views in the city were well worth the early hour and chilly air.
Castelo St Angelo Dome of St Peter’s
Even The Penguin and St Joseph were in awe of the sights.
Once we all arrived at St Peter’s, we were in awe. Now, we’ve all seen a number of cathedrals and churches all over the world, but this one pretty much outshines almost all the others.
Inside St Peter’sThe Papal Altar. Only the Pope can officiate from here.
Inside the walls of the world’s smallest country, there are also the Vatican Museums and The Sistine Chapel. Here is where the crowds really appeared. Walking throught the halls of the museum was like leaving a Who concert in the 80’s. We weren’t able to go into the Rafael Hall so there is now a reason to return to Rome some time in the future (and in Februrary). The main halls were still stunning.
And, one of the halls had my favorite Roman god.
Bacchus, God of Wine
The Sistine Chapel is at the end of the museum halls. Pictures are not allowed, but I managed to sneak one with my phone as we were leaving. It’s amazing to think that Michelangelo completed this in only 4 years!
After a couple of days of religious viewings, it was time for some Italian culture. What better way to accomplish this than with a walking food tour. We started with sausages and hams, tried pizza (gluten free for me) and some tasty thistles.
I took it easy the next day but in the evening I did a night tour of Rome, on Segway! Segways and cobblestones are not the best combination and I have the bruises to prove this. Despite the crash, it was fun.
The crowds of Rome around the Epiphany made some of the sights in the center too crowded to maneuver on a Segway. But, we still got to see some great things. The Forum at night is pretty special.
Penguin had a good time, too.
The Colloseum and the Forum are more impressive in the daylight.
Colosseum exteriorInterior
Our archeologist guide gave us some insight into what went on here. Gladiator games were common events as were public executions where criminals and traitors were fed to wild animals. I don’t think ancient Rome was a very nice place to live.
We climbed to the top level on some pretty scary steep steps. I was very glad they had upgraded the ancient architecture with handrails. The views fromt the top where great.
Penguin tries to make friends with the locals
As my visit to the Eternal City was coming to an end, I did something you can pretty much only do here. I went to the Papal Audience. Since we were now past the Epiphany, and it was pretty cold, the crowds were remarkably small. We got pretty good seats.
The bottom picture is at the end of the audience when they brought a live circus on stage for everyone’s entertainment. Not kidding.
Since His Holiness blessed everyone and any religious items we had brought, Joe was positively euphoric. I know you can’t tell from his expression, but he was simply beaming.
We are all glad to be home now. The Penguin, Joe and I wish everyone a very happy new year. There are some fun trips planned for 2020, so stay tuned.
Well, not completely. There are other animals and stunning scenery too. But, it is the birds that really impress in the Okavango Delta.
In the delta, we stayed at a wonderful camp/lodge called Mopiri Camp. I don’t often give a plug for businesses here, but this camp (glamping for sure) was so spectacular that I want others to be able to experience it as well. It is part of a small Botswanan group of lodges and camps under the name of “Roots & Journeys“. I only stayed at Mopiri but if the other properties are half as good, they will still be wonderful.
One of my favorite feathered friends was the Malachite Kingfisher. So colorful and difficult to capture in photos. They don’t stay still for very long.
Another stunner is the Bee Eater. He blends in perfectly with the grasses, so he is also difficult to both see and shoot. I got a couple, but nothing great.
On the other end of the spectrum is the Maranbou Stork. He’s one of the UGLY 5, and probably sits at the top of the list. Poor guy. We will see him again in Uganda.
Up until arriving in Botswana, I had only ever seen photos of the Spoonbill and always wanted to see one live. They are all over the delta and are as goofy looking as I thought they would be. You have to wonder what evolutionary advantage that bill gives him.
The Yellow Billed Stork likes to wade around with his bill in the water hoping something will swim in. Since there are lots of these birds, the strategy must work.
There are several types of egrets, but they all look the same to me. That does’t meat I didn’t love them all.
Clearly, the egrets are all smart, since they have figured out how to hitchhike on the buffalo and stay away from elephant feet.
I have no idea what this next bird is called. I even googled it. No luck. Don’t you think he’s one of the most interesting birds you’ve seen? If you know what he’s called, please comment. Also, what do you think those yellow things are for?
And here are some of the other birds in the Okavango.
The Okavango was also the first time I had seen papyrus growing. I knew it was a grass, but didn’t know it grew in water. It’s really quite beautiful.
The water lilies were also stunning.
In addition to the wonderful birds, there were some other wonderful animals. Lions, Elephants, and even a Crocodile.
And in case you were concerned, our little penguin enjoyed Botswana. He liked the fact that there was water everywhere and it would be harder for other creatures to eat him.
There are several challenges to keeping up with blog posts in Africa. The first is probably the more obvious: a serious lack of decent internet connections. The second, is less obvious, unless you have been to Africa: you take so many bleeping photos that it takes forever to sort through them. Both of these are the biggest reasons for my now being weeks behind in posts.
One of the most special things we saw here were the Painted Dogs (AKA the African Wild Dog). They are very rare and very endangered.
Hwange is a national park a few hours south of Victoria Falls. It is a lovely park with great animal viewing and wonderful birds. The elephants are particularly abundant and seem to have great fun.
Lions live here as well. This majestic male was far away but so exciting to see.
I am always happy to see giraffes. They are so wonderful to watch. The way they move and the their goofy faces. What is a group of giraffes called?
A Tower of Giraffes. They’re called something else if they are moving.
And of course, more Impalas. Africa Fast Food.
Zebras also abound. The stripes serve to confuse predators. When they run, the cats can’t tell where on zebra ends and the other begins. When you see a group of them, you get it. Do you know what a group of zebras is called?
A Dazzle of Zebras
Continuing with our collective noun trivia, a group of baboons is called a parliament of baboons. I think this relates to the British House of Commons’ reputation for disruptive and reckless behavior during debates, but I have no evidence of this.
In addition to the wonderful mammalian sights, there are wonderful birds. I never get tired of seeing birds. I am getting close to being a geek who never leaves the house without binoculars.
Male Ostrich. Buzzard. HawkHammer HeadLilac Breasted Roller
Then there are the birds whose names I have forgotten. Sorry birds. I still love you.
After a couple of days at the park in Zimbabwe it was time to head to our next destination, Botswana. We boarded a bush plane for the brief flight over the Okavango Delta to our next lodge. MackAir Botswana has a sense of humor.
Obviously, an adventure was avoided on this flight.
Some of you may already know this. Zimbabwe is in a state of true economic collapse. There is no money in the banks and no petrol at the gas stations. Mugabe was ousted in 2017 but his lovely legacy remains.
There are no farms to feed the people and no money to import anything. There used to be farms, but Mugabe’s unique system of Agrarian reform left fields to fallow…for a long time… We met a lovely woman who hosted our group for dinner. She grows her own food in her garden, which is the size of a normal urban garden.
So, you may wonder…How do people pay for things? Well, there is a local version of Bitcoin meets Veemo. This works okay for the locals, but is less convenient for tourists. Up until the week before we arrived, the US$ and the SA Rand were both accepted. They were outlawed just before we got there. COOL, right???? Thank goodness for global credit cards. I started having flashbacks to my days in Brazil with fictitious currencies (all hail the UFIR) and hyperinflation.
We met our new guide Patience at the Vic Falls airport. She is an angel and was perfectly named by her parents. She taught us a new phrase/acronym/word. T.I.A. This Is Africa. Basically, it means all sorts of shit is going to drive you nuts but you just have to suck it up. T. I. A. baby.
Despite the terrible situation in this country, the people are so very nice. Too nice. I asked Patience why the people weren’t rioting in the streets. “We don’t do that,” was the response. Hey Zimbabwe, I have some people on Hong Kong you need to meet. In the meantime, please pray to your favorite diety for the welfare of the Zimbabweans. I really did love them.
So, as the title of this post suggests, we were in Victoria Falls. One of the 7 natural wonders of the world. Can you name the other six? No Google cheating.
The falls are incredible. HOWEVER, photographing them is a challenge. The volume of water is no large and so strong, that there is an almost constant mist everywhere. The mist is so strong in some places that the guides hand out rain ponchos. Despite the challenge, I did manage a few good shots.
The best views of the falls actually came from the air. I am getting used to helicopters now.
The following day I woke up at dawn to go back to the falls in an attempt to capture a few long exposure shots. The mist was somehow stronger and I ended up with a lot of “raindrops” on my lens. I did get a couple of good shots.
Lisa M., does this remind you of Multnomah falls?
On this same day, my new friends Dan & Helen and I went on a bridge tour. We walked on the catwalk under this bridge, which was built 100 years ago. So very cool.
After our death-defying tour, we decide to walk to Zambia to see the falls from that side. TOTALLY worth it, assuming you got your Zambian visa together with your Zimbabwe visa. We did, so off we strode, across the bridge once again to another country. Quite the experience navigating an land border between two African countries with no tour guide, but we had fun. And, the Rainbow Falls section on the Zambian side was breathtaking.
So, folks, Vic Falls is definitely worth a visit if you are on this continent. And, make sure you check out both sides of the falls.
South Africa is an amazing place, from the beauty and vibrancy of Cape Town to the game reserves in the eastern part of the country.
Cape Town is truly a world class city. Stunning scenery, gorgeous gardens, and a fabulous food and wine scene. One really needs a week to truly experience the city and surrounding areas. Unfortunately, I only had a few days.
My first day, I went to the game reserve of Inverdoorn. I am glad I did it because I got to practice with the new camera, but if you are visiting the country and planning to go east, you can skip the reserves near the Cape. Still, I managed to get a few choice pics.
A giraffe’s tongue can reach 20 inches in lengthWildebeest are considered one of the “UGLY 5”The babies aren’t even that cute. The Oryx is a beautiful antelope and this is the only place so far I have seen one.I was excited to see my first Ostrich. He was less impressed with me.Male Ostrich are black, because they sit on the eggs at night.Females are grey to blend in during the day.Babies blend in perfectly to their surroundings.Birds are cute, but less colorful than in other parts of the country.But sometimes the picture about more than just the bird.
After a day in the game park, spending some time in the city was required. What a stunning place.
Table Mountain is to Cape Town what Pao de Acucar and Corcovado are to Rio. Visible from all parts of the city and dominating all views.
Cape Town Harbor
While the city itself is fun, it is the cape itself that really shines. Stunning coastal views with almost unreal shades of blue.
We finished the day back in the center of town where Penguin made a new friend,
After a few days in Cape Town, we headed east to the game reserves. Stay tuned.
Once again I find myself about ready to start a new adventure while not having posted the one I have just ended. In this case, not really ended, but you get my point.
I have had a great time in Ireland over the past few weeks. I was here for a about 12 days, went back to the States, and then came back., The beauty of this North Atlantic island never stops amazing me. You know how the Inuit are said to have 1000 words for snow? Well, I wonder if the Irish language has that many words for the color green. I’ll have to ask.
I haven’t even begun to scratch the surface of places to see on the Emerald Isle, but I have had fun in the few places I have been.
The coast here is simply stunning. One day, on the advice of locals, I took the bus to Ballycotton. It’s in County Cork, along the sea, and has an incredible cliff walk (Sherri, I thought of you the whole time…).
It’s a bit late in the season for wildflowers, but this one was blooming. Debbie, you will really impress me if you can ID this one.The lighthouse island is visible one many parts of the hike.The warning signs along the path give you pause, or show the sense of humor of the locals. Another view of the lighthouse.I love the birds here.This fabulous heron was sitting on the hill at the end of the beach. i was pretty far away but thought I could make out a heron. Binoculars confirmed it so I walked along the beach about 250 meters to get his picture. Heading back to town along the same path. The vista never gets old.Back in town, there is a charming little harbor.Where my friendly heron (or his cousin) was out trolling for a meal.Apparently the fishing was not good so off he went.Waiting for the bus back to Cork, this little guy showed up to strut his stuff.
Another day trip I took was to the town of Midleton and the non nature buffs among you would like this place. It is the home of Jameson. You know, the Irish Whiskey…
Irish Whiskey is triple distilled (in something that looks just like the still above) and doesn’t use smoked peat. The chandelier everyone needs.
Near the city of Cork is a town called Clonakilty. I only spent a day there and am looking forward to going back.
The town has a beautiful old church but it’s true claim to fame is that it was the home of Michael Collins. If you don’t know who he was, rent the movie. Michael Collins was an Irish hero and republican who was instrumental in the independence movement.
One of the pretty painted buildings in Clonakilty. Celctic Cross on the CathedralMichael Collins. He was known as the Bigfella
Now, you have to be asking, “what about Cork”? There have been no pictures of Cork. Well, if you check my Instagram feed, I have posted a few. In case you don’t have it, my Instagram handle is Lauren Globetrotter.
I now have an apartment. It is furnished which makes for and easy move-in. I am looking forward to having a place to call home again. It’s also big enough for guests, so I hope to host many of you soon.
Cork is a very vibrant city with a lot going on. It is not terribly beautiful but it is changing and growing and it will be exciting to watch this over the next few years.
It is also a very international city. You are as likely to hear French, Spanish, Arabic or Russian on the streets as you are to hear English.
My neighborhoodCork Rooftops This is a river otter swimming just outside my apartment building.
So this gets you somewhat caught up. I am in Dublin now and hope to have a few things to share before my next major destination. You’ll just have to stay tuned to find out where.
Has it really been almost 2 months since I last posted? I would like to say it is because I have been off somewhere really remote and exotic, but that is not the case.
I was in the USA for a couple of months. Initially I was hoping to be there for only a couple of weeks, but I had dental issues that had to be dealt with. Apparently, I am the only person in the world who does not know how long cosmetic dental proceedures really take. Oh well, it gave me time to visit some nice spots and see friends.
First off, I went to Arizona and enjoyed the desert, yoga and spa visits. I went on some nice desert walks and experienced spectacular scenery.
The cacti in Arizona are really interesting. Some look spooky and some can be cartoon like. And even some can be like a piece of art.
After Arizona, I went to Santa Rosa for four weeks. When it wasn’t dumping rain, I went on hikes with my friends Debbie and Sherri and met new friend Jenny.
It was wildflower season and I had a great time playing with my old camera and a new one. The colors of the flowers are just incredible. I have gotten really in to taking pictures of flowers, which, unfortunately, will mean a new lens down the road. Meanwhile, I am learing with what I have.
With all of the rain N. California got in the spring of this year, the forests were an incredible sight. Shades of green rarely seen in the Golden State and rushing waterfalls.
Hiking around, there are still some signs of the devastating fires 18 months ago. Nature is nothing if not resillient and from disaster has sprung new birth and beauty.
In addition to hikes in the forest and hills around Sonoma County, I also hit the state beach one day. I will get those pictures posted later this week. It’s late now and I have an early morning flight.
Yeah, I took a bit of a break from writing. I would appologize, but I bet you were glad to have the break too.
Picking up where I left off, we sailed to the Peninsula from the South Georgia and South Sandwich Islands. Mother Nature again smiled on us with wonderful weather.
The sun does not set in Antarctica in December and January. It also never really gets very high that far from the equator. This gives the ice a special glisten and the sky a different hue.
One of the special things we did on The Peninsula was to camp one night. Yes, we spent the night sleeping on the ice. Well, not really sleeping. It doesn’t get dark and ice is not terribly comfortable. I am very glad I experienced this but would not go out of my way to do it twice.
This picture was taken about 11pm.
Our penguin had a great time on the campout and I am still not quite sure what kind of mischief he got up to while I hunkered down in my bag.
Of course, we saw penguins on the pensinsula. The Adelie only lives on the Antarctic continent and is not fairing well with the rising temperatures. We were fortunate to see one (although we joked that our guides put it there earlier in the morning).
We saw more Gentoos here too. This time we saw them jumping and swimming.
And of course, we saw more seals…
The real highlight, however, was the day we saw the Orcas. They were doing what is called “spy-hopping” which is when they bob up and down looking at seals on ice. Kind of like opening and closing the fridge door…
So, we come to the end of the Antarctic story. I hope you have enjoyed the pictures and some of the stories from this journey and all the other stops along the globe-trott.
The travels and the blog will continue, but with less frequent trips and posts. For 2019, I will be exploring a new place to live in the Emerald Isle and making a trip to Africa. Stay tuned and stay in touch.
