Tokyo!

I arrived in Tokyo after almost 24 hours traveling.  From Auckland to Hong Kong it was 11 1/2 hours and then it was another 4+ from HK to Tokyo.  Add layovers, waiting around and getting to/from airports, you get pretty close to 24 hours.  Needless to say, I was beat when I got here at 5:30am.  Luckily, just outside arrivals at Haneda International Airport there is a coffee shop with REALLY GOOD coffee.

Tokyo is an enormous city.  About 845 square miles and a population of 9.2+million.  It’s overwhelming when you first arrive.  All of these people knowing exactly where they are going and you are just standing around looking perplexed.  Fortunately, the appearance of a perplexed tourist sparks kindness in the locals.  Several times now I have been approached by locals offering assistance.  It has ALWAYS been appreciated.

Since hotel check-in time wasn’t until 2pm, I dropped off my luggage and walked around the Shinjuku area of the city; mostly in a fog and trying to stay awake.  I walked to the Hanazono shrine which is not famous but is quite pretty.

The second day I braved the subway/metro.  It’s massive and overwhelming at first.  All the lines have names, colors and most important, a giant LETTER for ID purposes. Each station has both a name and a number, which makes it much easier to figure things out.  Once you get the handle on that, navigating the system becomes much less stressful.

After getting a metro card (essential!) and the map, I ventured off to the Imperial Palace…in the rain.  The palace grounds are open t the public and it was very nice to see.  The gardens are lovely, even when not much is in bloom.

After some time walking around the palace grounds in the rain, I took refuge in the modern art museum.  It’s a very nice facility with a lot if information in English.  I loved that almost all the works were from Japanese artists.  This picture was my favorite.

Next, I visited the Sensoji temple and five story pagoda.  This is tourist central.  The temple is still used and I saw a number of people praying, but today it seems more like a tourist trap than a place of worship.  It is still a must see in Tokyo and the weather was cooperating.

There was something going on at the shrine that I was not able to figure out.  In addition to the above women in kimonos, there were two ADORABLE kids in traditional costumes.

 Near the temple, there is another tourist site.  The famous golden turd.  It’s actually supposed to be a flame and it sits on the office building of one of the breweries.  Whatever you think it looks like, there’s no missing it.

Tokyo is known for its Cat Cafes, but you can see a cat anywhere.  I went to the HEDGEHOG Cafe.  Yup, super cute hedgehogs you can hold.  For about $16 you can spend 30 minutes with two of your own cuties.

Near the Hedgehog Cafe is Shibuyu Station and the statue of the world’s most loyal dog, Hachiko, an Akita.  If you don’t know the story, there was a movie made, staring Richard Gere. The cat has become quite famous, too.

Another day I ventured to the Meiji Shrine, which is in a large 170 acre evergreen park.  Perfect for at day that was about 90 degrees F.  The original shrine was built in the early  20th century (1915 – 1920) but was largely destroyed during WWII.  It was rebuilt in 1958.

While at the Meiji shrine I got to see a beautiful bride getting ready for her wedding.  I don’t know much (actually nothing) about Japanese wedding traditions but I enjoyed being able to see something special.

As I mentioned in the beginning of this post, Tokyo is overwhelming in its size and population. Like all great cities, I am sure this one takes more than 5 days to get to know.  I probably would have seen more and learned a bit more on a tour, but navigating the city on my own has made me feel closer to it.  I could not have done it, however, if it weren’t for the kindness and warmth of the Japanese people.  They go out of their way to help, even when they don’t speak a word of English.  I will end my Tokyo post with my one Japanese word:    Arigatōgozaimashita or  ありがとうございました

Next stop:  Kanazawa

Helicopter to the Glaciers

Okay, I know you are getting sick of mountains.  But today I took a HELICOPTER to the top of the glacier.  I just had to share it with you because it was such a great day!

The views from the helicopter and the top of the glacier were incredible.

Franz Josef Glacier Ice Fall
Mountain Top from the Helicopter

It was also fun to play in the snow on the top of the mountain!

So I won’t bore you with any more commentary.  Here are some quick pictures to see what I saw today.  If you are not interested, you wont hurt my feelings.

The helicopter
The helicopter pilot – Clark

Have a great day!  And remember, you can comment and send me messages directly from the post or email!

 

New Zealand 2.0

Hello!!!!  I didn’t realize it had been so many days since my last post until I received a message from one of you asking if she was still subscribed.  OOPS!

Yes, I am still here and still enjoying the trip.  I was up in what they call here, the Far North.  I stayed in a sweet little town called Russell where I met friends of my friend Claire (the woman I shared a room with in the Galapagos).

Russel is a picturesque seaside town that is in the center of an area called the bay of islands.  The town itself looks like what Hollywood would create if it were creating the perfect seaside town, complete with cute gulls and interesting murals.

 

My first full day in Russell, I actually got sick.  I felt the cold coming on for a couple of days and then it hit full on.  So, I took a nice walk of the town and found the pharmacy.  The pharmacist gave me this great homeopathic cough medicine made with ivy leaf extract.  It was amazing.  Worked in 1 day.  Healing power of plants!  I bought more to keep on hand for the next cold I get.

The next day, I took a boat cruise on the bay.  It was a beautiful clear day with wonderful scenery…

And DOLPHINS!

The boat crew knows most of the dolphins in the bay and can identify them by the dorsal fins.  These two are named Bad Jelly (front) and Fuzzy Bum.  How a dolphin has a fuzzy bum I do not know.

One of the best sights on the bay is the Hole in The Rock.

We were fortunate on our trip that we got to take the boat THROUGH the hole.

The next day I went to the Waitangi Treaty Grounds.  This is where the treaty was signed between the Maori people and the British crown.  The grounds contain a carved Meeting House.  Visitors can see tradition Maori dance and hear songs and explanations of Maori traditions.

After my day at Waitangi, I enjoyed an evening on the deck of some new friends.

Up in Northland, I also visited the northernmost point of New Zealand and saw some of New Zealand’s tallest trees.  Northern New Zealand is really beautiful and I don’t know if I would have ventured up there if I had not met Claire in The Galapagos.  I hope to get back there again in the near future.

I am now in the central coast of the North Island in a place called Hawkes Bay.  I have a couple more weeks in this beautiful country.   Stay tuned for more adventures.

Oh, and driving on the Left gets easier by the day.  I have only been honked at once today!

 

 

Hello from New Zealand!

I spent three days in Auckland in a hotel that had the worst internet connection outside of the two poles.  I could not log on with my computer no matter how much I tried and the ladies at the desk were no help.  Even connecting with the phone was a problem.  Don’t stay at the Waldorf (no connection to US company) apartment hotels in New Zealand.  You’ve been warned.

Auckland is a lovely city.  So clean and organized.   It is clear that it is a great place to live; however, there is not much for a tourist to do. The first day was spent walking around and trying to stay awake until a reasonable bedtime.

Harbor Building in central Auckland.

The second day, I had lunch with the daughter of my roommate from the Galapagos.  She also took me around to some wonderful parts of the city.  Thank you, Megan for a great day.

View of Auckland from Cornwall (?) Park

There is a wonderful little working farm right in Auckland where we saw the lambs!  They don’t let you get too close to them but they were still cute.

And then, we saw this guy.  I think it’s a rooster of some sort, but he was just too fabulous to leave out.

One wonderful little day trip is to Waiheke Island.  It a quick 35 minute ferry ride from Auckland and has some beautiful coastline and nice wineries.

View of Auckland Harbour from the ferry
Waiheke Island Rocky Coast
Beach on Waiheke Island
Vineyards with Sea View – Must be a nice life the winemaker has

There is also a nice little village on Waiheke.  Walking around, I came across this shop.  I just loved the sign…make sure you can read the slogan.  (Sorry to my vegetarian friends.)

Shop in Waiheke Island

I survived my first day with the rental car.  Took my time getting to the “motorway” and kept telling myself “keep left, keep left”.   Driving got easy pretty fast but I still turn on the windshield wipers every time I try to use the turn signal!  At the first stop on the drive North, St Joseph and The Penguin came out of hiding.

Penguin even tried meeting some of the locals…

We all arrived in the Northland in one piece.  I am here for about four days before heading back south to Hawkes Bay and then on to the South Island.

 

 

Santiago 2.0

I came back to Santiago for a couple of days before flying on to New Zealand.  Once again, I got lucky.  It rained the day before I got back here and there was more snow in the mountains.  The biggest benefit to a day of rain is that the skies are clear (it washes the air, as they say).

Since it was such a clear and gorgeous afternoon, I went up to the top of the Costanera Center Tower (the building whose twin is in SF).  The actual name of the attraction is Sky Costanera.  It’s pretty overpriced for an elevator ride but the views are incredible.

Even The Penguin was in awe of the view.

The next day I visited the Museum of Memory and Human Rights.   If you are unfamiliar with what happened in Chile (and the US involvement) between 1973, I encourage you to read this:

https://www.nytimes.com/2017/10/14/world/americas/chile-coup-cia-museum.html

You could also watch the movie Missing, starring Jack Lemon and Sissy Spacek.  It’s very good.

Before I talk about the museum, I want to tell you a story.  In 1987 (yes, 31 years ago), I came to Santiago for the first time.  I was traveling solo around South America for the summer and no, my mother was not thrilled.  I arrived in downtown Santiago very late at night.  My bus from Mendoza, Argentina was delayed at the border due to snow.  I had the address of the local Youth Hostel, but my information was out of date.  Pinochet’s government had closed all youth hostels the previous year (which I only learned later).

Luckily, I was in a taxi and my taxi driver was doing everything to help me.  We asked around and were given an address.  It turned out to be a rooming house for female students at an international studies program in Santiago.  They were horrified that I was out on the streets alone that late and insisted I stay with them.  I ended up staying five days and learned quite a bit about what was going on in Chile.

One night, a group of us were drinking tea in the kitchen and the national police (Carabineros) pulled up in front of the building.  I saw terror on the faces around the table.  The Carabineros were looking for someone next door.  We saw them take a young gentleman away.  The women I was with knew him and told me they would never see him again.

It is one thing to read about what went on all over this continent in the 70’s and 80’s.  It was another thing to live it.  I got a small taste that night in Santiago but too many lived with terror on a daily basis.  Since there are still some 1,000 people missing in Chile, many are still living it.  The Museum of Memory and Human Rights’ mission is to ensure that by remembering the past we do not repeat it.  It was heart wrenching to see and learn from many recently declassified documents.

The museum itself is very tasteful and very well curated.  It does not try to sugarcoat any of the atrocities but also does not strive to make the visitor uncomfortable or depressed.

Exterior of the building
What happens if I forget
Wall of the missing
Newspaper from the time

The dictatorship lasted from 1973 to 1990.  It was only in recent years that the CIA has admitted its involvement in the coup and the extent to which it supported the Pinochet regime.

My final day in Santiago was spent just walking around and visiting another museum:  The Museum of Contemporary Art.  It’s located in a lovely building next to the Quinta Normal park.  Much of the collection is too “installation art” for my taste, but there are some wonderful paintings and several good sculptures.

My next stop is New Zealand.  Stay tuned and stay happy!

 

Those Missing Pictures

Do you remember when I posted that I had a problem with an SD card and that I had lost some pictures.  Well, I have finally been able to recover them.  These were taken on the second day of the Galapagos trip and include a couple of decent photos of yours truly as well as some shots of the Galapagos Penguin.

Atacama or at least parts of it

The weather has not really improved.  We’ve had a couple of dry days and then a big storm the other night. Dirt streets afer rain make for muddy boots, and even muddier dogs.  On the 20th, I went to the Valle de Arco Iris (Rainbow Valley).  Beautiful colored mountains.  Our guide told us how rare it is to see so much snow at these “lower” elevations…9,000 ft.

Valle de Arco Iris

Yes, that’s me

In the high valley, we got to see some lovely llamas.  They like the cold and snow.

In the afternoon, I visited some beautiful lagoons.  The light at sunset was incredible.

The next day, I went to Valle de la Luna.   It was so named by a Belgian priest, Gustavo la Paige, who was sent to the Atacama and recognized the historical and geological wealth of the region.

The three “Marias” named by Father la Paige. Rock formations. I think the Maria on the left looks more like an iguana.

Further in to the valley, we hiked up a sandy hill to see the views.  I do not like hiking uphill in sand, but the view was worth it!

During the trip, our tour was adopted by a puppy.  She was on the side of the road and our bus driver said we could take her with us back to town.  Her tag said her name was Kahla and our guide was going to try to find her owners or find her a new home.

Kahla was very thirsty

At the end of a busy afternoon, we stopped for a roadside snack and pisco sour at the top of another hill.  The sunset views were spectacular.

And, we all got a chance to get on the roof of the bus for photos!

Stay tuned for updated on whether or not I can get out of here or if I am destined to be stuck in the Atacama until Spring.

 

 

 

 

Galapagos Recap

The first thing you notice when you get to the Galapagos is how stark everything looks.  It is a region of contrasts.  On the coast of the islands, it is almost a desert.  Up in the highlands there is lush vegetation.

Beauty is everywhere, especially along the shore.

 

 

 

 

Of course, it’s the animals we all came here to see.

The sea lions are everywhere.  I don’t think a day went by that we didn’t see some.  And, on a couple of islands, you had to be careful not to trip over them.

The blue footed boobie is perhabs the most famous animal of the islands and they did not disappoint.  The instensity of the color of the feet depends on when they last ate.  The bluer the feet, the more recent the meal.  They are also known as the clowns of the Galapagos and you can certainly see why.  Their faces are just so goofy.  I fell in love.

 

The juveniles’ feet arent blue yet, but their faces are still fantastic.

Boobie chicks are really fluffy.

There is also a red footed boobie.  Not as common and much shyer (shier?), but we were able to see a few on the second to last day.

They have really beautiful blue faces.  Yes, that really is the color.

And their chicks are just as fluffy…

More to follow in Galapagos II.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Wow, what a time…

I am off the boat and back in Quito for a few more hours.  I have a flight at 4:15am tomorrow morning to start what will be the travel day from hell.  I go from Quito to Lima, Lima to Santiago and then Santiago to Calama.  For those of you unfamiliar with South American geography, it would be like flying from New York to Dallas via Chicago and Los Angeles.

The Galapagos were AMAZING.  I am still sorting through the photos for a proper post, but below are some teasers.  I think I took 500 picutres of Sea Lions and even more of the famous blue footed boobie (is that not the best name in the world).  Don’t worry, I won’t post all of them.

I also think I lost some picutres.  I had an issue with an SD card being corrupted.  I have not lost all hope of recovering them.  One that card were pictures of the Galapagos penguin. Something tells me St. Joseph had something to do with the missing picutres.

Anyway, as I said, tomorrow is a LOOONG travel day so I will have time to sort through the remaining pictures and tell you all about my visit to the Galapagos.  Here are some picutres to whet your appetite:

The blue footed boobie

 

A beautiful beach

Pink Flamingo (Hello to Ashbury Terrace and Upper Terrace)

Sea Lions (they are smaller than the California species)