Lauren

Hello Rwanda

Rwanda is known as the land of 10,000 hills.

One thing about flying around the African continent is that there are very few direct flights. To get from Maun (the city in Botswana closest to the Okavango Delta) to Kigali, you first have to fly to Johannesburg. Not in the right direction. You arrive in Jo’berg at about 6pm and your connecting flight leaves at 3am. I decided these lovely connection times were chosen to ensure full occupancy rates at the in-airport hotel. It all worked out and on the flight to Kigali I met a very interesting woman from Australia who now lives in Johannesburg. Turned out we were also staying at the same hotel.

Rwanda has worked very hard to change impressions from the past. The country is extremely clean. Plastic bags were outlawed in 2008 and there is no trash anywhere. One day a month, the whole country participates in a community work day (Umuganda day) when the citizens clean the streets and do other public works. The president of the country wants Rwanda to be the Singapore of Africa. While this may take a while, it it certainly the cleanest and best organized of the African countries I visited.

What most people travel to Rwanda to see is gorillas. Gorillas and the super cute golden monkeys.

The problem with photographing primates in the jungle is twofold. First of all, they like to hang out in the bush making it difficult to focus on them (vs a leaf or something else). Second, their cute little (or large for gorillas) faces are very dark and the camera can’t focus very well. Consequently, you end up with a LOT of blurry monkeys. The upside to this is how excited you get when one or two of the pictures actually turns out.

Getting to the monkeys and the gorillas involves a walk through a farming area and then trecking in the jungle until you find them. This is true jungle trecking, no paths, through bush and stinging nettles. The farming area was stunning as it led to the mountains.

Golden Monkeys are amazing with cute, and somehow elegant, faces.

It’s their backs and stomaches that have the golden color.

Rwanda now cherishes their gorillas. The permit price to go see them is very high but worth it if the money really does go toward conservation. Every year, in September, the locals celebrate the previous year’s gorilla births in a naming ceremony. The gorillas themselves don’t participate, but it is a lovely custom. This is where the naming ceremony takes place and this September they will be naming 28 (i think) baby gorillas!

As I said earlier, getting pictures of these wonderful animals was tough. I am happy that a few came out. Here’s a tip, if you ever decide to go gorilla trecking: keep your ISO set to auto and adjust your exposure comensation if you camera has that feature. I’ll be ready if I ever go back.

After the gorillas and golden monkeys, I think the thing that most impressed all of us was how insustrious and determined the Rwandan people are. Outside of the capital, roads are poor and transportation options limited. The people still manage to get their goods to market and farm the land.

While the stay in Rwanda was short, it was a wonderful experience. If you are thinking of visiting the gorillas and monkeys, you definitely should. You should also not wait too long. The treck is diffcult and I don’t know if I would have enjoyed it so much in another 10 or 15 years.

Next stop is Uganda…

Botswana – It’s for the birds

Well, not completely. There are other animals and stunning scenery too. But, it is the birds that really impress in the Okavango Delta.

In the delta, we stayed at a wonderful camp/lodge called Mopiri Camp. I don’t often give a plug for businesses here, but this camp (glamping for sure) was so spectacular that I want others to be able to experience it as well. It is part of a small Botswanan group of lodges and camps under the name of “Roots & Journeys“. I only stayed at Mopiri but if the other properties are half as good, they will still be wonderful.

One of my favorite feathered friends was the Malachite Kingfisher. So colorful and difficult to capture in photos. They don’t stay still for very long.

Another stunner is the Bee Eater. He blends in perfectly with the grasses, so he is also difficult to both see and shoot. I got a couple, but nothing great.

On the other end of the spectrum is the Maranbou Stork. He’s one of the UGLY 5, and probably sits at the top of the list. Poor guy. We will see him again in Uganda.

Up until arriving in Botswana, I had only ever seen photos of the Spoonbill and always wanted to see one live. They are all over the delta and are as goofy looking as I thought they would be. You have to wonder what evolutionary advantage that bill gives him.

The Yellow Billed Stork likes to wade around with his bill in the water hoping something will swim in. Since there are lots of these birds, the strategy must work.

There are several types of egrets, but they all look the same to me. That does’t meat I didn’t love them all.

Clearly, the egrets are all smart, since they have figured out how to hitchhike on the buffalo and stay away from elephant feet.

I have no idea what this next bird is called. I even googled it. No luck. Don’t you think he’s one of the most interesting birds you’ve seen? If you know what he’s called, please comment. Also, what do you think those yellow things are for?

And here are some of the other birds in the Okavango.

The Okavango was also the first time I had seen papyrus growing. I knew it was a grass, but didn’t know it grew in water. It’s really quite beautiful.

The water lilies were also stunning.

In addition to the wonderful birds, there were some other wonderful animals. Lions, Elephants, and even a Crocodile.

And in case you were concerned, our little penguin enjoyed Botswana. He liked the fact that there was water everywhere and it would be harder for other creatures to eat him.

The next stop in the journey is Rwanda.

Zimbabwe – Hwange

There are several challenges to keeping up with blog posts in Africa. The first is probably the more obvious: a serious lack of decent internet connections. The second, is less obvious, unless you have been to Africa: you take so many bleeping photos that it takes forever to sort through them. Both of these are the biggest reasons for my now being weeks behind in posts.

One of the most special things we saw here were the Painted Dogs (AKA the African Wild Dog). They are very rare and very endangered.

Hwange is a national park a few hours south of Victoria Falls. It is a lovely park with great animal viewing and wonderful birds. The elephants are particularly abundant and seem to have great fun.

Lions live here as well. This majestic male was far away but so exciting to see.

I am always happy to see giraffes. They are so wonderful to watch. The way they move and the their goofy faces. What is a group of giraffes called?

A Tower of Giraffes. They’re called something else if they are moving.

And of course, more Impalas. Africa Fast Food.

Zebras also abound. The stripes serve to confuse predators. When they run, the cats can’t tell where on zebra ends and the other begins. When you see a group of them, you get it. Do you know what a group of zebras is called?

Continuing with our collective noun trivia, a group of baboons is called a parliament of baboons. I think this relates to the British House of Commons’ reputation for disruptive and reckless behavior during debates, but I have no evidence of this.

In addition to the wonderful mammalian sights, there are wonderful birds. I never get tired of seeing birds. I am getting close to being a geek who never leaves the house without binoculars.

Then there are the birds whose names I have forgotten. Sorry birds. I still love you.

After a couple of days at the park in Zimbabwe it was time to head to our next destination, Botswana. We boarded a bush plane for the brief flight over the Okavango Delta to our next lodge. MackAir Botswana has a sense of humor.

Obviously, an adventure was avoided on this flight.

Zimbabwe – Victoria Falls

Some of you may already know this. Zimbabwe is in a state of true economic collapse. There is no money in the banks and no petrol at the gas stations. Mugabe was ousted in 2017 but his lovely legacy remains.

There are no farms to feed the people and no money to import anything. There used to be farms, but Mugabe’s unique system of Agrarian reform left fields to fallow…for a long time… We met a lovely woman who hosted our group for dinner. She grows her own food in her garden, which is the size of a normal urban garden.

So, you may wonder…How do people pay for things? Well, there is a local version of Bitcoin meets Veemo. This works okay for the locals, but is less convenient for tourists. Up until the week before we arrived, the US$ and the SA Rand were both accepted. They were outlawed just before we got there. COOL, right???? Thank goodness for global credit cards. I started having flashbacks to my days in Brazil with fictitious currencies (all hail the UFIR) and hyperinflation.

We met our new guide Patience at the Vic Falls airport. She is an angel and was perfectly named by her parents. She taught us a new phrase/acronym/word. T.I.A. This Is Africa. Basically, it means all sorts of shit is going to drive you nuts but you just have to suck it up. T. I. A. baby.

Despite the terrible situation in this country, the people are so very nice. Too nice. I asked Patience why the people weren’t rioting in the streets. “We don’t do that,” was the response. Hey Zimbabwe, I have some people on Hong Kong you need to meet. In the meantime, please pray to your favorite diety for the welfare of the Zimbabweans. I really did love them.

So, as the title of this post suggests, we were in Victoria Falls. One of the 7 natural wonders of the world. Can you name the other six? No Google cheating.

The falls are incredible. HOWEVER, photographing them is a challenge. The volume of water is no large and so strong, that there is an almost constant mist everywhere. The mist is so strong in some places that the guides hand out rain ponchos. Despite the challenge, I did manage a few good shots.

The best views of the falls actually came from the air. I am getting used to helicopters now.

The following day I woke up at dawn to go back to the falls in an attempt to capture a few long exposure shots. The mist was somehow stronger and I ended up with a lot of “raindrops” on my lens. I did get a couple of good shots.

Lisa M., does this remind you of Multnomah falls?

On this same day, my new friends Dan & Helen and I went on a bridge tour. We walked on the catwalk under this bridge, which was built 100 years ago. So very cool.

After our death-defying tour, we decide to walk to Zambia to see the falls from that side. TOTALLY worth it, assuming you got your Zambian visa together with your Zimbabwe visa. We did, so off we strode, across the bridge once again to another country. Quite the experience navigating an land border between two African countries with no tour guide, but we had fun. And, the Rainbow Falls section on the Zambian side was breathtaking.

So, folks, Vic Falls is definitely worth a visit if you are on this continent. And, make sure you check out both sides of the falls.

South Africa – the big 4

Okay, so there are really 5, but Leopards are very elusive. Despite good guides and trackers, that particular feline did not grace us with its presence. I remain hopeful, however, as I have a few more countries to go…

The Big 5 are Lions, Leopards, Elephants, Buffalo and Rhinos. The list was originally drawn up by big game hunters to refer to the 5 most difficult, and dangerous, animals to hunt on foot.

After visiting Cape Town, we journeyed east to Kruger National Park and a private reserve called Karangwe. Both were incredible. Kruger is the more famous of the South African parks and is stunning. Seeing so many different birds was an amazing experience. Karangwe is where we got to see a lot of animals, including some cats. Rather than try to remember in which park we saw what exact animals, I am just going to post by group.

The Birds

Lilac Breasted Roller. Abundant and so pretty.

Same bird, different angle. I just loved these guys.

Owl. Don’t remember what kind. I think it’s a spotted fishing owl, but can’t be sure. Still cute though.

Yellow Billed Horn Bull (a.k.a. Flying Banana)

Tick Bird. You see these on a lot of the larger animals, eating the ticks.

Little green parrots. No these are not the same as the ones in SF.

Reptiles

Only a few here.

Terapins, for you University of Maryland fans.

Cheetahs!

These were spotted in Karangwe. We were able to get very close, about 4 meters or so, and we were out of the jeep.

Warning, some of the images may be disturbing.

Hippos

Okay, so there not the cutest, but in the water they are pretty cool. Also, more people are killed by hippos in Africa than by any other animal.

Giraffes

There is something about these creatures that just captivates me. Perhaps is the goofy face or how they are able to contort themselves in seemingly impossible ways.

Elephants

These are the true king of the jungle. Without them, no one else could survive. They control the brush but eating and knocking over trees. They also create habitat for other species.

Lions

We came upon the lions at the end of the day. It was a group of all males (not sure if it’s called a pride when they are all one gender), one adult and three juveniles. It got darker as we stayed with them, so the quality of the images is not as good as I would have liked. But, they were wonderful to watch.

You can just see the mane starting to grow in.

Antelope

There are 72 different antelope in Africa. 21 of them can be found in Kruger. We did not see that many.

Impala. Called Africa fast food, since they are so abundant.

Kudu. Majestic and tasty (they are on several menus around the country)

In Africa, the game is “pin the tail on the antelope”, not donkey.

Miscellaneous

Other animals for whom I only have a few postable pics or or, as I know now, I have better pics from later in the trip.

Wildebeest is a bit shy when it comes to having his picture taken. He knows what people say about him. He looks like he was made up of all the spare parts when God was done creating the animal kingdom.

Cape Buffalo. He wanted us to get out of his way.

Juvenile Zebra. Mommy zebra was on the other side of the road.

At the end of our time in the game reserves of South Africa, we were blessed with this stunning view. (No, CA, there are no fires down there).

Next stop, Victoria Falls!

South Africa 1.0

South Africa is an amazing place, from the beauty and vibrancy of Cape Town to the game reserves in the eastern part of the country.

Cape Town is truly a world class city. Stunning scenery, gorgeous gardens, and a fabulous food and wine scene. One really needs a week to truly experience the city and surrounding areas. Unfortunately, I only had a few days.

My first day, I went to the game reserve of Inverdoorn. I am glad I did it because I got to practice with the new camera, but if you are visiting the country and planning to go east, you can skip the reserves near the Cape. Still, I managed to get a few choice pics.

A giraffe’s tongue can reach 20 inches in length

Wildebeest are considered one of the “UGLY 5”

The Oryx is a beautiful antelope and this is the only place so far I have seen one.

I was excited to see my first Ostrich. He was less impressed with me.

Male Ostrich are black, because they sit on the eggs at night.

Females are grey to blend in during the day.

Babies blend in perfectly to their surroundings.

Birds are cute, but less colorful than in other parts of the country.

But sometimes the picture about more than just the bird.

After a day in the game park, spending some time in the city was required. What a stunning place.

Table Mountain is to Cape Town what Pao de Acucar and Corcovado are to Rio. Visible from all parts of the city and dominating all views.

While the city itself is fun, it is the cape itself that really shines. Stunning coastal views with almost unreal shades of blue.

We finished the day back in the center of town where Penguin made a new friend,

After a few days in Cape Town, we headed east to the game reserves. Stay tuned.

Ireland 1.0

Once again I find myself about ready to start a new adventure while not having posted the one I have just ended. In this case, not really ended, but you get my point.

I have had a great time in Ireland over the past few weeks. I was here for a about 12 days, went back to the States, and then came back., The beauty of this North Atlantic island never stops amazing me. You know how the Inuit are said to have 1000 words for snow? Well, I wonder if the Irish language has that many words for the color green. I’ll have to ask.

I haven’t even begun to scratch the surface of places to see on the Emerald Isle, but I have had fun in the few places I have been.

The coast here is simply stunning. One day, on the advice of locals, I took the bus to Ballycotton. It’s in County Cork, along the sea, and has an incredible cliff walk (Sherri, I thought of you the whole time…).

It’s a bit late in the season for wildflowers, but this one was blooming. Debbie, you will really impress me if you can ID this one.

The lighthouse island is visible one many parts of the hike.

The warning signs along the path give you pause, or show the sense of humor of the locals.

This fabulous heron was sitting on the hill at the end of the beach. i was pretty far away but thought I could make out a heron. Binoculars confirmed it so I walked along the beach about 250 meters to get his picture.

Heading back to town along the same path. The vista never gets old.

Back in town, there is a charming little harbor.

Where my friendly heron (or his cousin) was out trolling for a meal.

Apparently the fishing was not good so off he went.

Waiting for the bus back to Cork, this little guy showed up to strut his stuff.

Another day trip I took was to the town of Midleton and the non nature buffs among you would like this place. It is the home of Jameson. You know, the Irish Whiskey…

Irish Whiskey is triple distilled (in something that looks just like the still above) and doesn’t use smoked peat.

Near the city of Cork is a town called Clonakilty. I only spent a day there and am looking forward to going back.

The town has a beautiful old church but it’s true claim to fame is that it was the home of Michael Collins. If you don’t know who he was, rent the movie. Michael Collins was an Irish hero and republican who was instrumental in the independence movement.

One of the pretty painted buildings in Clonakilty.

Michael Collins. He was known as the *Bigfella*

Now, you have to be asking, “what about Cork”? There have been no pictures of Cork. Well, if you check my Instagram feed, I have posted a few. In case you don’t have it, my Instagram handle is Lauren Globetrotter.

I now have an apartment. It is furnished which makes for and easy move-in. I am looking forward to having a place to call home again. It’s also big enough for guests, so I hope to host many of you soon.

Cork is a very vibrant city with a lot going on. It is not terribly beautiful but it is changing and growing and it will be exciting to watch this over the next few years.

It is also a very international city. You are as likely to hear French, Spanish, Arabic or Russian on the streets as you are to hear English.

This is a river otter swimming just outside my apartment building.

So this gets you somewhat caught up. I am in Dublin now and hope to have a few things to share before my next major destination. You’ll just have to stay tuned to find out where.

Love to everyone!!!

Western USA

Has it really been almost 2 months since I last posted? I would like to say it is because I have been off somewhere really remote and exotic, but that is not the case.

I was in the USA for a couple of months. Initially I was hoping to be there for only a couple of weeks, but I had dental issues that had to be dealt with. Apparently, I am the only person in the world who does not know how long cosmetic dental proceedures really take. Oh well, it gave me time to visit some nice spots and see friends.

First off, I went to Arizona and enjoyed the desert, yoga and spa visits. I went on some nice desert walks and experienced spectacular scenery.

The cacti in Arizona are really interesting. Some look spooky and some can be cartoon like. And even some can be like a piece of art.

After Arizona, I went to Santa Rosa for four weeks. When it wasn’t dumping rain, I went on hikes with my friends Debbie and Sherri and met new friend Jenny.

It was wildflower season and I had a great time playing with my old camera and a new one. The colors of the flowers are just incredible. I have gotten really in to taking pictures of flowers, which, unfortunately, will mean a new lens down the road. Meanwhile, I am learing with what I have.

With all of the rain N. California got in the spring of this year, the forests were an incredible sight. Shades of green rarely seen in the Golden State and rushing waterfalls.

Hiking around, there are still some signs of the devastating fires 18 months ago. Nature is nothing if not resillient and from disaster has sprung new birth and beauty.

In addition to hikes in the forest and hills around Sonoma County, I also hit the state beach one day. I will get those pictures posted later this week. It’s late now and I have an early morning flight.

Antarctic Peninsula! Finally!!!

Yeah, I took a bit of a break from writing. I would appologize, but I bet you were glad to have the break too.

Picking up where I left off, we sailed to the Peninsula from the South Georgia and South Sandwich Islands. Mother Nature again smiled on us with wonderful weather.

The sun does not set in Antarctica in December and January. It also never really gets very high that far from the equator. This gives the ice a special glisten and the sky a different hue.

One of the special things we did on The Peninsula was to camp one night. Yes, we spent the night sleeping on the ice. Well, not really sleeping. It doesn’t get dark and ice is not terribly comfortable. I am very glad I experienced this but would not go out of my way to do it twice.

Our penguin had a great time on the campout and I am still not quite sure what kind of mischief he got up to while I hunkered down in my bag.

Of course, we saw penguins on the pensinsula. The Adelie only lives on the Antarctic continent and is not fairing well with the rising temperatures. We were fortunate to see one (although we joked that our guides put it there earlier in the morning).

We saw more Gentoos here too. This time we saw them jumping and swimming.

And of course, we saw more seals…

The real highlight, however, was the day we saw the Orcas. They were doing what is called “spy-hopping” which is when they bob up and down looking at seals on ice. Kind of like opening and closing the fridge door…

So, we come to the end of the Antarctic story. I hope you have enjoyed the pictures and some of the stories from this journey and all the other stops along the globe-trott.

The travels and the blog will continue, but with less frequent trips and posts. For 2019, I will be exploring a new place to live in the Emerald Isle and making a trip to Africa. Stay tuned and stay in touch.

South Georgia & Environs

South Georgia looks like someone took the European Alps and plopped the in the Southern Ocean and then added all the wildlife of the Galapagos. It is truly a once in a lifetime experience.

It took us about two days to get to South Georgia from the Falklands/Malvinas. Again, we were blessed by sunny skies and calm seas.

Shag Rocks are the first bit of “land” you see on your way to South Georgia. They are teeming with bird life.

Along the route, we were lucky to witness a couple of Orcas feeding. We were also lucky we didn’t have to see whatever the meal was.

Myriad Sea Birds taking advantage of what the whales didn’t want. Albatross, petrels and more.

Arriving in South Georgia is unforgetable. Mountains and sea with vistas unlike anywhere else on earth.

Grytviken is the largest populated place (not really a town) in South Georgia. It used to be a whaling station in the 19th and early 20th centruries. Today is functions as a research station. There are about 12 people there year round and another 12 or so live there in the summer.

A fur seal enjoys some rest near one of the old whaling boat ruins.

Grytviken is also the final resting place of Sir Ernest Shackelton, famed explorer and saviour of his men. We visited the grave and gave a toast to “the boss”, as he is known. If you don’t know the story, google it. There’s also a pretty good movie about him.

Around the islands are different mamals and yes, MORE PENGUINS!

Fur Seal Pup
Peek a Boo
Yawn!
Poser
Fur Seal pups playing

One of the birds I just loved was the Tern. They were all over South Georgia and always made me smile.

South Georgia is also the home of the worlds largest King Penguin colony. 500K Penguins all in one place! The pictures can neither show the vastness of the colony nor can they share the smell.

All of those little dots are King penguins.

Only Leopard Seals eat penguins, so they feel safe with the fur seals.

These two guys look like they might be holding a campaign rally. Is the guy on the left seeking the Democratic nomination?

In addition to the majestic King Penguins, South Georgia also has a number of the super cute Macaroni Penguins. If you think they look like Rockhoppers, you are right, but there are differences (or at least I was told there were).

And, it was in South Georgia that we were able to see the Chinstrap Penguin. It’s easy to see how he got his name.

After four days in South Georgia, we sailed onward to the Antarctic Continent. Stay tuned!

Antarctica Journey – Falklands/Malvinas

After completing a tree week journey in the Southern Ocean and Antarctica, I am at a loss of where to start.

We departed Ushuaia, Argentina and sailed for two days to get to the Falklands/Malvinas (note, I am not claiming political sides here), where we spent two days.

Our first day was at an island with a four, count’em FOUR different kinds of Penguins, and a colony of Albatross. An amazing introduction to bird live in the Southern Ocean.

First we saw Gentoos and Kings. Kings are like smaller versions of the Emperor. Gentoos are sneaky little trouble makers who like collecting and stealing rocks for their mate. They also pretty much look and act like all the cartoon penguins you have seen over the year. Yes, it was love at first site.

Kings always lootk so elegant – regal even. Probably how they got their name.

King Chicks are really fuzzy. Early explorers thought they were a different type of penguin and named them Wooly Penguins.

Where the King is distinguished, the Gentoo is just a goof. He always makes you smile.

The Gentoo always looks so happy and proud when it finds a rock.

Magellenic Penguins can be seen all over South America, but in the Falklands they are everywhere.

And, Gentoos will hang out with them and lead them along…

Rockhoppers are fun and much different looking. And, they really do hop along the rocks.

In addition to penguins, the Falklands/Malvinas are home to many (thousands???) Albatross. I loved how majestic these birds look and how wise they seem.

The Falklands/Malvinas also have a nice little town, Stanley, which is not a bad place to enjoy a cup of coffee and a walk around in something other than muck boots.

Penguin enjoyed his time here and managed to make a few friends. Joe even got in on some of the action, when he wasn’t complaining about the cold.

After a couple of days in the Falklands/Malvinas we set off to South Georgia. It was a couple of days sailing and we were so fortunate to have such wonderful weather.

I am making my way through the literally thousands of photos I took and will post more soon. In the meantime, thing of Penguin and his complete bliss being close to his homeland.

Southern Ocean

I am posting quickly from my phone, sitting in a cafe in Stanley, Falkland Islands.

We have had remarkable weather for the past three days. Temps around 15 degrees Celsius, moderate winds, and sunny skies.

We head off to South Georgia this afternoon and then on to the Great White Continent.

I will sign off with some photos.

It’s penguinning to look a lot like Christmas….

Jordan!

Okay, I am now even FURTHER behind. So far behind that I am writing this in a hotel room in Buenos Aires the day before heading to Ushuaia and my Antarctica trip.

Jordan was incredible. To save time, I am just going to post pictures. Sorry I don’t have time to be creative with verbage.

Outside of the capitol, Amman (which I Now know is pronounced Ah-MAN and not Ahh – mon) are the ruins of Jerash. These are some of the most impressive Roman ruins I have ever seen.

Petra was the next big site and what most people come to this beautiful country to see. It did not disappoint.

Pictures just cannot do justice to Petra, or Wadi Rum, our next stop.

One evening we took a cooking class. It was a lot of fun, but I will say they need to get their knives sharpened.

On one of our last days, we visited the River Jordan…more like the Jordan Muddy Creek. On the other side of the water is Israel. It is so good that these two countries get along now.

THE END

P.S. As I mentioned above, I will be getting on a plane to Ushuaia and from there on to a boat to Antarctica. I will be gone for 3 weeks and internet connectivity will be pretty sparse if it exists at all. If I do manage a signal somewere, I will try to post a picture of a penguin or whale. Otherwise, stay tuned for a long post in January.

I wish all of you a very happy holiday season and all the best for the New Year. Stay safe and warm. Can’t wait to see everyone in 2019.

Israel – the other bits

I am so far behind in my posts. Israel was so amazing I had no time or energy to deal with pictures and posting. So, pictures won’t have that much description.

After Jeruselem, we traveled to the West Bank. If you didn’t know, Bethlehem is in the West Bank. We also visited a Palestinian refugee camp and heard about the politics from the Palestinian perspective (the previous evening we had a lecture with a rabbi).

The key symbolizes the homes the regugees left behind.

Joe was happy to be back in his homeland.

After the West Bank, we continued on to Masada. Truly an amazing Roman Fortress. The picutres didn’t look like much when I tranfered them, but this barraks shot can give you an idea of the site. Definately worth a visit.

After an AMAZING 8 days in Israel, we crossed the border in to Jordan.

Oh Jeruselem!

Jeruselem is a feast of senses and emotions. All the things you learned about in school (and any religious study) now stand in front of you. This city of faith and geopolitics is alive, beautiful, and if I may add, a bit filthy.

I spent the first day walking around before my tour started. I didn’t have much time as I promised the hotel I would be back by 2pm to change rooms (complicated story here). I found myself at the Jaffa Gate and then at the Tower of David (aka The Citadel). What an amazing introduction to Jeruselem.

The view from the top of the tower was even more stunning.

The Dome of the Rock built upon the Temple Mount. One of the most photographed, and beautiful buildings in the world.

Day two the tour began. It all seems like somewhat of a blur now…all the things you see, hear and feel. Three major faiths consider this city holy and you see them all living and praying here. Walking through the old city is a bit overwhelming…a mix of shopkeepers, religious pilgrims and secular tourists like us.

Path of Sorros – the path that Chirst took on his way to the crucifixion. Pilgrims walk this street while chanting and singing.

Western Wall or Wailing Wall. Such an incredible expression of faith.

Entering the Holy Seplecur Church is an excercise in patience. So many people queuing up to touch things they believe Christ touched. Since the church was so croweded, one of the guys on my tour, Vladimir, and I got up at 3 am the next day to see the church at dawn. We left the hotel at 3:30 am and armed with nothing but Google Maps, we somehow found the chukrch. Actually, if it weren’t for two muslim ladies who pointed us in the right direction, we might still be wandering. It was worth it.

Entrance to the Holy Seplecur Church at about 4:05am

Sitting on the steps in the Church of the Holy Seplecur

After spending an hour or so in the Church, Vlad and I got a taxi up to the Mount of Olives to view Jeruselem illuminated at night before the sun rose. Again, totally worth it.

After a couple of days in the Holy City, we had our introduction in to the politics. That’s another post. I will let you enjoy these photos first.

Before I sign off, I would like to tell you that WordPress changed the software for blogs. The new one is terrible, AND, they have removed the spell check. UGH!

All is well

Once again I find myself sending an “I am fine post.” All is well. Just so busy during the day that I am too tired to mess with pictures at night. Photos and info coming soon.

UAE – Dubai and Abu Dhabi

If Vegas and South Florida had a love child, it would be Dubai. Opulence and glitz are everywhere. You might have to throw in a bit of SoCal, too, as the freeways rival even the widest part of the 405!

Dubai is a nice place to spend a few days. There is plenty to do and plenty of ways to relax. I stayed in the Marina area, which is a bit far from a lot of bright lights. Walking around the marina in the early hours was nice, before it got too hot. That said, if/when I go back, I would probably stay closer to the center.

Abu Dhabi, one of the other Emirates, is just a quick trip by far from Dubai. It is famous for its incredible Grand Mosque, which is truly one of the most impressive buildings I have ever seen.

The inside is impressive. Of course women need to cover their heads in the mosque. When in Abu Dhabi…

This beautiful central courtyard of the mosque is supposed to be off-limits, but this young boy didn’t seem to know the rules. Nobody tried to stop him either.

The other must see destination in Abu Dhabi is the Louvre. The building is odd from the outside, but inside it is stunning.

The collection inside is equally impressive, with archeological artifacts from all over and curated to show civilizations’ advances at similar period in different areas. I think this is one of the best museums I have ever been to.

As a side treat, we got to watch a bit of one of the camel races. It was a hoot!

What’s even more of a hoot is that the jockeys are ROBOTS! Zoom in if you can’t see them. (Jordan, here’s a new market for you).

The day after Abu Dhabi I went on a Camel Safari in the desert of Dubai. It was a lot of fun, but Camels are not exactly comfortable.

In addition to camels, Falcons have been important in the desert for a long time. They are beautiful animals and I even got to hold one.

My time in the desert is not over. I head now to Israel and Jordan.

Oman, Oh Man!

Oman was an interesting and wonderful stop along the Journey. So different than any place else I have been so far.

First, let me dispel any misconceptions you may or may not have about this Gulf country. It is absolutely, positively, 100% safe. Safer than most cities in the USA. The people are warm and friendly and genuinely want you to love their country. Like other Gulf countries, Oman imports a good portion of its labor force. There are many people working in the country who are from Pakistan, India, Bangladesh, etc. If you encounter someone who is a bit surly, they are probably not Omani.

Tourism in Oman is in its infancy. There is not the same level of infrastructure or service you see in Dubai and Abu Dhabi. This has a good side and not so good side. The good is that it is not very crowded and you get to see what the country is really like. The not so good is that the hotels and restaurants are not up to the standards you find in other countries.

I began my visit in Muscat, the capitol. This is a lovely sea-side city which is rich in history while also looking to the future.

The first stop on my tour was to the Grand Mosque which is mind-blowingly beautiful.

The inside of this mosque is as impressive as the outside.

The chandelier inside the mosque is the worlds largest and one of the worlds prettiest.

The Penguin and Joe enjoyed the visit as well. Joe is glad to be back in the desert.

The royal palace is an equally impressive structure. The colored columns make the palace unique.

It’s even more impressive at night.

The Muscat Fort is an historical structure that offers great views back down to the city.

The day ended with a sunset cruise along the coast. Oman is famous for its frankincense incense, so there is a large, very cool replica of a burner along the coast. The sun setting behind it makes it look like a spaceship.

After Muscat, I headed to Nizwa. This mountain city is known for its fort, castle and GOAT SOUK!!

The Goat Souk starts in the early morning and people from all over come to buy and sell goats; men, women and children. The goats are walked along a “runway” and if you are interested, you wave. The only thing that has changed in the past hundred years or so is that now people have smartphones!

After the goats, we visited the fort and castle.

And inside both fort and castle we were treated to a show by the some of the local tribesmen.

A visit to Oman would not be complete without a stay in the desert. The camp was nice, but the scenery was better.

And what trip to the dessert would be complete without a camel experience.

I made friends with one in the camp and then got to ride one later the same day.

There was a lot more I saw in Oman, but these were the best bits. A big thank you to my wonderful guide, Omar. He was knowledgeable and so very kind. He even made friends with Penguin. He was the best representative his country could have had.

Stay tuned for the UAE!

And, for my followers and readers in the USA, a very Happy Thanksgiving. Stay warm and have a piece of pumpkin pie for me.

Much love to all.

Hanoi and North Vietnam

After the incredible zen-ness of Siem Reap and the temples, we were jolted back to the modern world in Hanoi.

Hanoi, like its sister to the South, is vibrant, chaotic, and full of life. Again, I liked it immediately.

So much of life is lived on the street. Seems on every corner there are people hawking goods or services.

And while Vietnam is famous for its street food, some things weren’t worth trying…despite the lovely presentation.

Staying connected in Vietnam is becoming easier by the day, but they may want to consider wireless technology.

Ha Long bay offers respite from the delightful chaos of Hanoi. Unfortunately, we didn’t have the best weather and shared the waters with so many boats I thought once that we might be re-filming Dunkirk.

The Mekong, Vietnam and Cambodia were an incredible part of this journey and should be on everyone’s bucket list. Yes, the heat was oppressive at times, but I would not have missed this for the world.

Next stop…The Middle East.

Things on Bikes

When I was flying in to Vietnam from Hong Kong several weeks ago, I met a lovely woman on the plane. She spends a lot of time in Vietnam and told me I should do a post just on things on motorbikes. So here it is. You can laugh, be amazed, but most of all, be thankful you don’t have to haul your stuff on a two wheeler.

The Little Giant ladder company could use this in their ads. “You can even put it on a moped!”

At least this guy has a trailer for his bike.

I am not sure what they are carrying, but it’s a good thing there are two of them.

Do you think he blew up the ballons AFTER he parked?

What do you think she does when her young passenger is not there to hold the parasol? And how is the girl in the back holding on?

Whatever is in the crates and bags between his legs, he apparently needs cooking oil too.

That’s one serious “Amazon Fresh” delivery. How many people are in that family?

It’s nice that the PARENTS are wearing helmets.

I can’t even think of a caption for this one.

The person holding the yellow box sure has faith in the driver.

If you can’t fit it all on the back of the bike, there’s always the space between your legs. Just hope you don’t need to shift that often.

Now aren’t you glad you have a car or at least Uber?