Month: September 2018

When a typhoon is hours away from hitting a Japanese city, the people DO go to the store.  The difference, as I found out earlier this afternoon, is they don’t buy out the place.    There were still products on the shelves.  I was reminded of the near supermarket hysteria in DC when Isabel was about to hit.  Hey DC, you can learn from the Japanese!  I bet they don’t panic when it snows either.

I have enjoyed Kyoto but I wish now I had come here first.  It is a city of temples and shrines and by this time in the Japan journey, I am pretty templed and shirned out.  You probably are too, if you have been following the posts.

In addition to shrines, Kyoto is known for the incredible Arashiyama area.  Natural beauty with a river and mountains and, the incredible Bamboo grove.

The river that runs through the area has these wonderful cormorants just hanging out.

There is a temple and lovely gardens in Arashiyama as well, but I will reserve my temple photos for ones in central Kyoto.

In addition to temples and shrines, Kyoto is also known for Geishas.  I did not go to any of the houses where Geishas work, but I did go to Gion, the neighborhood known for them.  It’s a lovely place to walk around and you get a feel for what the city may have been like 50 or 100 years ago.

Possibly the most important Buddhist temple in Kyoto is Higashihonganji.  It’s quite impressive.  There was a prayer service going on while I was visiting and I was able to sit in the back and listen to the beautiful chanting of the monks.  It was so peaceful.

Here in old and new coexist, a shrine and a modern tower.

The rooftops are just so amazing.

A peek inside from outside the doors.

This guy was just hanging out on the roofs.  I think he was trying to figure out where to go to ride out the storm.

So this evening, my last in Japan, the city is hunkered down.  Streets are quiet.  Hopefully, to storm will come and go without too much damage.  Hopefully for me, trains and planes will be running tomorrow.  All trains right now are cancelled.  The forecast says the storm will be out of here by noon tomorrow.

I have loved my two weeks here.  I have had a great time and seen a lot.  I don’t know if I would do the solo thing over again.  I think I have missed out on some things since I don’t speak the language and cannot read the explanations on signs.  However, traveling solo, navigating subways and buses has given me a better feel for the country and enabled me to meet people I would not have on a tour.

My next stop is Beijing, where I do have a tour starting for several parts of China.  I have a flight tomorrow night from Nagoya.  I don’t know if I will be able to post from China, the Great Firewall may make it difficult.  I hope I can, at least once or twice.  So, if you don’t see a post for a couple of weeks, I have not forgotten you.

When I started planning my visit to Japan, I wasn’t going to come to Hiroshima.  I don’t like being reminded about the horrors human beings are capable of inflicting on one another.  However, several people said I should reconsider.  I am glad I did.

Hiroshima today is a modern vibrant city with wide boulevards and lush greenery.  The city is now a living monument dedicated to promoting peace on earth.

As you get close to the center, or the hyperzone (ground zero),  there is an amazing little (very little) park area with a number of treasured old trees.  The trees in the little park survived the bomb.  A testament to the strength of nature.

Walking along the river is when you first see it, the Atomic Dome, a skeleton of the building it once was and a forever reminder of what happened on August 6, 1945.

After walking around the dome (and before heading to the peace park), I headed to the Hiroshima Castle, which was rebuilt after the War to exactly replicate the original.  It is a beautiful structure next to a lovely shrine and lush gardens.

When I was in the castle grounds, there was a photo shoot going on.  Gorgeous young people in traditional dress.  I love the kimono colors, but I don’t think I would want to walk too far in those shoes.

Also on the castle grounds, for the benefit of tourists, are roaming Samurai.  I got a picture with two of them.  They promised me the hand signal was appropriate.

After the castle, I visited the Peace Park Memorial and Museum.  Any words I try to come up with seem hollow.  Oh, and the dove on top is real.

A day in Hiroshima is emotionally draining.  By the end, I was exhausted from both all the walking and everything I experienced.

My next day in the area, I went to Miyajima Island.  This is most famous for the red Great Torii Gate which appears to float at high tide.  I was there between the tides, but it was still beautiful.  It was also sunny, for once.

The gate leads to the Itsukushima shrine.

The island is also famous for the deer that roam around.

Up the hill from the Itsukushima shrine is the Daisho-in (Buddhist) Temple.

There is a side path and staircase that has about 500 statues of deities.  My limited research says that they are the guardians of children, but I welcome correction if needed.  I could find no reason for the hats.  Nobody had an explanation.  If you know why they are all wearing hats, PLEASE let me know (it’s not because they are cold…)  Also, do you think someone knit or crocheted all of those hats?

The view from the temple, which at the top of the hill, is also impressive.

Miyajima would be a great place to spend a day and would be even better to spend the night.   My travel companions also enjoyed the day and were equally happy for good weather.

Next, and final stop in Japan is Kyoto.  I hope to see some great sights before Monsoon Trami hits.

Don’t forget, you can comment and let me know what you liked or didn’t like.

Greetings.  Konichiwa.

I have spent several days in the delightful city of Kanazawa.   This city is known as “Little Kyoto”.  Not having been to Kyoto (yet), I cannot offer an opinion on this.  I can say, it is lovely.

Kanazawa, despite having shrines and temples to spare, is not a tourist mecca yet.  This has both good and bad sides.  The bad, very little in the way of tourist infrastructure. The good, far fewer tourists.  So, should you add this city to your Japan list?  ABSOLUTELY.  Should you take a patience pill before you get here, also yes.

My good luck with weather has not followed me to Japan. I spent one day seeing sights in POURING rain and another in a steady drizzle.  My USA umbrella gave up the ghost on day one here.  Lucklily, every other shop sells umbrellas.

The most important sight of the city is the castle and neighboring gardens.  The castle has burned down more times than I can mention here, so the one that exists today is a rebuid from the 20th century.  It’s still beautiful and the builders did all they could to follow traditional techniques.

The sun finally came out later in the day.

Next to the castle are the Kenrokuen gardens.  They are reputed to be one of only three “perfect” gardens  in Japan.  I have no idea what makes a garden “perfect” but they were lovely.

Near the castle and the gardens are numerous women (and the occasional man) in traditional dress.  I never did figure out why or what they were doing, since I did not want to be THAT stupid tourist.  I shared many a bus with women in traditional dress and near the gardens, two of them let me take their picture.

After the castle, the other big sight in Kanzawa is the Oyama Jinja Shrine.  Like other big shrines or temples, the sight is both shrine and garden.  This particular one was pretty spectacular.

I just loved these frogs.  Can I have someone put them in my next house, wherever that may be?

After days touring shrines and gardens, it was time to take a break.  I was lucky to be able to get a spot at a tea ceremony. One of the perks of being a solo traveler…you can often squeeze in to existing bookings.

The rituals and formality that surrounds the tradidional preparation of tea is something so foreign to Westerners in generals and Americans in particular. It was a real treat for this California girl to see something so sacred associated with what we consider to be a mere beverage.

It was very interesting to me that the tea in the ceremony is powdered.  I asked why and our hostess said that was what was brought from China hundredes of year ago, so the tradition remains.

Kanawaza was a wonderful experience. As I write this, I wish I had taken photos of my favorite dinner spot.

I found this great little barbeque spot near my hotel run by a wonderful husband and wife team.  While most of our communication was sherades, we were able to get by.  One evening (I ate there three times), I was stuggling with chopsticks and large pieces of vegetables. The owner offered me a fork, which I refused.  We all laughed.   Well, mostly they laughed at me and my attepts at large things with chopsticks.  At the end, we all had fun and I loved them for their humor.  I wish I had taken pictures.  It didnt’ occur to me until later. Now, every place where I make a connection, I will try to take a picture.

My next stop is Hiroshima.  Probably not as positive an experience, but too many people said I had to stop there.   Hopefully, it will not depress me too much.

I arrived in Tokyo after almost 24 hours traveling.  From Auckland to Hong Kong it was 11 1/2 hours and then it was another 4+ from HK to Tokyo.  Add layovers, waiting around and getting to/from airports, you get pretty close to 24 hours.  Needless to say, I was beat when I got here at 5:30am.  Luckily, just outside arrivals at Haneda International Airport there is a coffee shop with REALLY GOOD coffee.

Tokyo is an enormous city.  About 845 square miles and a population of 9.2+million.  It’s overwhelming when you first arrive.  All of these people knowing exactly where they are going and you are just standing around looking perplexed.  Fortunately, the appearance of a perplexed tourist sparks kindness in the locals.  Several times now I have been approached by locals offering assistance.  It has ALWAYS been appreciated.

Since hotel check-in time wasn’t until 2pm, I dropped off my luggage and walked around the Shinjuku area of the city; mostly in a fog and trying to stay awake.  I walked to the Hanazono shrine which is not famous but is quite pretty.

The second day I braved the subway/metro.  It’s massive and overwhelming at first.  All the lines have names, colors and most important, a giant LETTER for ID purposes. Each station has both a name and a number, which makes it much easier to figure things out.  Once you get the handle on that, navigating the system becomes much less stressful.

After getting a metro card (essential!) and the map, I ventured off to the Imperial Palace…in the rain.  The palace grounds are open t the public and it was very nice to see.  The gardens are lovely, even when not much is in bloom.

After some time walking around the palace grounds in the rain, I took refuge in the modern art museum.  It’s a very nice facility with a lot if information in English.  I loved that almost all the works were from Japanese artists.  This picture was my favorite.

Next, I visited the Sensoji temple and five story pagoda.  This is tourist central.  The temple is still used and I saw a number of people praying, but today it seems more like a tourist trap than a place of worship.  It is still a must see in Tokyo and the weather was cooperating.

There was something going on at the shrine that I was not able to figure out.  In addition to the above women in kimonos, there were two ADORABLE kids in traditional costumes.

 Near the temple, there is another tourist site.  The famous golden turd.  It’s actually supposed to be a flame and it sits on the office building of one of the breweries.  Whatever you think it looks like, there’s no missing it.

Tokyo is known for its Cat Cafes, but you can see a cat anywhere.  I went to the HEDGEHOG Cafe.  Yup, super cute hedgehogs you can hold.  For about $16 you can spend 30 minutes with two of your own cuties.

Near the Hedgehog Cafe is Shibuyu Station and the statue of the world’s most loyal dog, Hachiko, an Akita.  If you don’t know the story, there was a movie made, staring Richard Gere. The cat has become quite famous, too.

Another day I ventured to the Meiji Shrine, which is in a large 170 acre evergreen park.  Perfect for at day that was about 90 degrees F.  The original shrine was built in the early  20th century (1915 – 1920) but was largely destroyed during WWII.  It was rebuilt in 1958.

While at the Meiji shrine I got to see a beautiful bride getting ready for her wedding.  I don’t know much (actually nothing) about Japanese wedding traditions but I enjoyed being able to see something special.

As I mentioned in the beginning of this post, Tokyo is overwhelming in its size and population. Like all great cities, I am sure this one takes more than 5 days to get to know.  I probably would have seen more and learned a bit more on a tour, but navigating the city on my own has made me feel closer to it.  I could not have done it, however, if it weren’t for the kindness and warmth of the Japanese people.  They go out of their way to help, even when they don’t speak a word of English.  I will end my Tokyo post with my one Japanese word:    Arigatōgozaimashita or  ありがとうございました

Next stop:  Kanazawa