Santiago 2.0

I came back to Santiago for a couple of days before flying on to New Zealand.  Once again, I got lucky.  It rained the day before I got back here and there was more snow in the mountains.  The biggest benefit to a day of rain is that the skies are clear (it washes the air, as they say).

Since it was such a clear and gorgeous afternoon, I went up to the top of the Costanera Center Tower (the building whose twin is in SF).  The actual name of the attraction is Sky Costanera.  It’s pretty overpriced for an elevator ride but the views are incredible.

Even The Penguin was in awe of the view.

The next day I visited the Museum of Memory and Human Rights.   If you are unfamiliar with what happened in Chile (and the US involvement) between 1973, I encourage you to read this:

https://www.nytimes.com/2017/10/14/world/americas/chile-coup-cia-museum.html

You could also watch the movie Missing, starring Jack Lemon and Sissy Spacek.  It’s very good.

Before I talk about the museum, I want to tell you a story.  In 1987 (yes, 31 years ago), I came to Santiago for the first time.  I was traveling solo around South America for the summer and no, my mother was not thrilled.  I arrived in downtown Santiago very late at night.  My bus from Mendoza, Argentina was delayed at the border due to snow.  I had the address of the local Youth Hostel, but my information was out of date.  Pinochet’s government had closed all youth hostels the previous year (which I only learned later).

Luckily, I was in a taxi and my taxi driver was doing everything to help me.  We asked around and were given an address.  It turned out to be a rooming house for female students at an international studies program in Santiago.  They were horrified that I was out on the streets alone that late and insisted I stay with them.  I ended up staying five days and learned quite a bit about what was going on in Chile.

One night, a group of us were drinking tea in the kitchen and the national police (Carabineros) pulled up in front of the building.  I saw terror on the faces around the table.  The Carabineros were looking for someone next door.  We saw them take a young gentleman away.  The women I was with knew him and told me they would never see him again.

It is one thing to read about what went on all over this continent in the 70’s and 80’s.  It was another thing to live it.  I got a small taste that night in Santiago but too many lived with terror on a daily basis.  Since there are still some 1,000 people missing in Chile, many are still living it.  The Museum of Memory and Human Rights’ mission is to ensure that by remembering the past we do not repeat it.  It was heart wrenching to see and learn from many recently declassified documents.

The museum itself is very tasteful and very well curated.  It does not try to sugarcoat any of the atrocities but also does not strive to make the visitor uncomfortable or depressed.

The dictatorship lasted from 1973 to 1990.  It was only in recent years that the CIA has admitted its involvement in the coup and the extent to which it supported the Pinochet regime.

My final day in Santiago was spent just walking around and visiting another museum:  The Museum of Contemporary Art.  It’s located in a lovely building next to the Quinta Normal park.  Much of the collection is too “installation art” for my taste, but there are some wonderful paintings and several good sculptures.

My next stop is New Zealand.  Stay tuned and stay happy!